[TR] Snowking Mt., Black Pk., Sept. 7-9- South Rid

[PVD]

Climb: Snowking Mt., Black Pk., Sept. 7-9-South Ridge, Kindy Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 9/9/2005

 

Trip Report:

This trip report is pretty dated, but I just got my pictures developed, so I thought I’d post a report. I made my third annual trip to the North Cascades the second week of September. My plan was to climb three peaks along the North Cascades Highway -- Snowking Mountain, Black Peak and West McMillan Spire. I managed to squeeze in the first two before driving back to Portland in driving rain.

These routes aren’t of much interest to those seeking technical challenge, but I can’t recommend them enough to someone looking for a low-stress climb in a spectacularly scenic area.

 

Snowking Mountain -- Kindy Ridge

 

I’ve wanted to climb Snowking Mountain for three years, since admiring the photo of this beautiful peak in Cascade Alpine Guide and reading about the mountain’s “wilderness location” and unusual volume of glaciation for a peak of its elevation (7,433).

The climb turned out to be more scenic -- and easier -- than I anticipated.

For those who haven’t climbed Snowking, after the snow melts down low, a climber’s path leads you to the peak. The path begins at the end of Road 1570, which leaves Cascade River Road about 14 miles from Marblemount. You have to hike the last 2.5 miles or so of 1570 due to a major washout. The path is obvious and marked with plenty of brightly colored flagging -- as is much of the route. This seemed like overkill, as there is a clear path most of the way, but I guess it helps early-season climbers.

Once you emerge from the forest, there’s no shortage of awesome views of the Cascade Pass-area peaks and Snowking and great (but waterless) campsites.

Views from approach:

 

The route-finding to incredible, turquoise Cyclone Lake -- below Snowking’s north face -- was easy. The lone potentially confusing point is where the route descends from a high point (about 5,800 feet, with great views of the peak) before climbing Kindy Ridge. I passed another solo hiker/climber on this high point, who warned me about dangerous loose boulders near the summit, and told me about some good campsites near the lakes just north of Cyclone.

Cyclone Lake:

 

After another hour of hiking, I descended from the ridge and set up camp between Cyclone Lake and a smaller lake. This was one of the best camps I’ve enjoyed in the Cascades. Amazing alpine area, total solitude. I climbed the ridge after dinner, and watched the sunset with views of Sahale, Johannesburg, etc.

I got a casual start the next morning, regained the ridge and followed the climber’s trail through heather, climbed over huge, easy slabs, then scrambled over boulders that lead to the summit rocks. I followed the edge of the Snowking Glacier for a stretch. The summit is reached after crossing a notch to the southeast side and scrambling a bit of Class 2 with minimal exposure.

Those boulders were never that loose.

The views were stunning, and conditions perfect. I spent nearly an hour relaxing on the summit and taking pictures of the Snowking glaciers, the Picket Range, Glacier Peak, Rainier, Baker and Shuksan, the Cascade Pass peaks, Mt. Chaval, etc.

Summit Views:

 

The only thing tainting this trip was the 10!!! yellowjacket stings I sustained on my legs-- six on the way in, four on the hike out. I had marked the area where I was attacked on the ascent, and ran through it on my way down, but the bastards were on me as soon as I stopped. My left calf was bruised from the stings the next morning and I actually thought I had somehow injured myself on the climb. The stings itched for more than a week.

Otherwise, this was a beautiful, relaxed climb.

 

Black Peak-- South Ridge

 

During my limited time climbing, I’ve never seen the weather change so fast.

When I reached Heather Pass, it was sunny, perhaps 75 degrees. But by the time I had crossed the boulder fields, hiked past beautiful Lewis Lake and set up camp at even more stunning Wing Lake, foreboding clouds had rolled in and seemed to be threatening rain. The weather forecast had suggested possible thunderstorms the next day, so I hoped to climb Black Peak that afternoon. But a 1 p.m. start from the trailhead meant it was already 4 by the time I started up scree toward the south ridge. Based on Cascade Alpine Guide’s estimated trip time of 3.5 hours from lake to summit, I wondered whether I’d have time to climb before dark. But it was looking more and more like rain was inevitable. So, I decided to try to beat the storm.

I passed a solo climber descending, who advised me that it might take two more hours to the summit. This was at 4:30. He also warned of difficult packed dirt that required a little ice axe work, and said he turned back without summiting due to exposed 4th class he didn’t feel comfortable climbing without a rope. Hmmm. None of this sounded like much fun if wet. Well, I thought, I’ll just see how it goes.

I must have chosen an easier route, because the dirt/scree never seemed sketchy on my way to the “prominent col.” From there, the route-finding was easier than expected. The south ridge and wide gully to its left presented a wide range of options, and cairns here and there help mark the way.

The ascent to the area below the false summit went quickly, thanks in part to my sense of urgency, and the traverse route to the east side was pretty obvious. I found a fairly steep route (maybe 4th, but not all that exposed) up to the summit ridge about an hour and 20 minutes after leaving the lake. I spent just a few minutes admiring the awesome, gothic scenery around me. Mt. Goode looked truly evil.

 

 

 

I’m not sure I’ve felt a greater sense of isolation. It was unsettling -- in a good way. I spent just a few minutes on the summit, then headed down what seemed to be the Class 3 gully described by Beckey. The descent to Wing Lake was quick and easy.

Back at camp, after dinner, the wind really picked up. My tarp shelter, supported by hiking poles, resisted the high winds all night, but I barely slept -- kept awake by the gusts roaring through the larch trees around me and shaking the shelter. Lightning flashed in the distance, and sleet blew onto my bivy sack. I stayed relatively warm and dry all night, and got up at first light to see dark Black Peak dusted with snow. It began to snow at the lake as I packed up, and I hiked out through driving sleet and fog. As I descended from Heather Pass, soaking wet, the sun started to burn through the clouds.

A great trip.

 

Gear Notes:

Good boots for Snowking.

 

Helmet for Black Peak

[Norman_Clyde]

Cyclone Lake looks worth a visit.

[skykilo]

Nice shot of Goode; I think I'll go see if there's a bigger one in your gallery.

 

Gotta go ski Snowking this year...

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

I climbed Snow King the following weekend. A great scramble with awesome views.

 

We were also nailed by those #*(&(&*(*# yellowjackets. I got at least a dozen stings...