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About iluka

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  • Birthday 05/27/1969


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    Seattle, WA
  1. For Sale: Millet Odyssey 60+10L Backpack. Top-loading pack with zipper access to bottom of pack. Removable top compartment. Two ice ax loops. Side straps for carrying skis. Zippered pouch on right hip belt. Gear loop on left hip belt. Includes pack cover specific for this pack which stores in zippered pouch on bottom of pack. Small tear in back panel needs repair. $70 If interested: andrew_luks@yahoo.com
  2. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    Keep in mind that "first thing in the morning" may now be earlier than expected. We did a trip a few weeks back and when we showed up on Saturday morning at 6:30AM -- 30 minutes before they open the Ranger Station -- we were already number 10 in line. Forbidden zone permits were gone by the time our number was called and we got to the desk to register. Within a few minutes after 7AM, that line had grown to over 30 parties. If you show up the afternoon before, I believe you can get a permit for a trip starting the following day. Also, once they close the station for the night, they are putting out a box of numbered cards so you can come in the evening and grab a number that puts you in a good spot for the next morning.
  3. Cramps

    Not likely. There are two kinds of strokes: ischemic (loss of oxygen to the brain, which is usually due to arterial vessel blockage) and hemorrhagic (bleeding). Both cause irreversible damage in proportion to the size/area affected. As a long shot, this could be a temporary vessel occlusion (blockage) that is released within minutes of stopping the descent. That would be very unlikely. Add that no permanent effects have yet been detected and it seems even more unlikely to explain this. Maybe Dr Phil can help... I'm a certified Neurologic RN who works with acute stroke victims and I will say that these symptoms are consistent with a Transient Ischemic Attack (TIA or Mini-stroke) which only last 1-30 minutes and then completely resolve.. Might be worth a quick Head CT or MRI to rule out any type of vascular abnormalities. These symptoms are in no way consistent with those seen in stroke (hemorrhagic or ischemic) or transient ischemic attacks and there is no indication to do a Head CT or MRI in this situation. Spare yourself that time and expense. A local occlusion of the vessel feeding the affected muscle is certainly possible but the likelihood of that in a young, healthy, non-smoking individual is very unlikely as vessel occlusion like that is typically only seen in older individuals who have smoked for a long time (peripheral arterial disease) and some other less common circumstances.
  4. Black Diamond Carbon Compactor Ski Poles. 125 cm. Brand New. Never Used. Black shaft and handles. $95 (current retail: $120-130) If interested: andrew_luks@yahoo.com
  5. Ski/climb Denali WB - experience/advice/partners?

    June does have more snow but it's also the warmest part of the climbing season and depending on the snow pack in a given year, the lower Kahiltna glacier can be very broken up, particularly during a return to basecamp at the latter end of the month. I would be wary about skiing un-roped on the lower glacier late in the month, particularly during the middle of the day.
  6. [TR] Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier 5/16/2015

    Quick update on conditions for thinking of going out in this current weather window... we did it May 31, two leaks later than the OP's TR. - Some snow on Shannon Ridge and on the way up to the notch. Intermittent snow for the first part after the notch but after rounding the first big bend, continuous snow above that. - The sulphide looked pretty cracked up for this early but staying on the west side of the glacier kept one well away from all of that and there were no major crevasse issues on the way to the summit pyramid - The snow couloir in the middle of the peak was already out. Melted down to rock in spots. What snow remained looked like it was serving as a bowling alley. Once gained, the ridge was free of snow
  7. altitude training?

    Timberline is just shy of 6 000 ft, I think that elevation would not make much of a difference, as usually human body is not greatly effected by altitude till about 9000-10000 ft level. It would definitely make for inconvenient commute, with very little of a real benefit. Some of the physiologic responses to hypoxia do actually start around 6,000 feet but the stimulus from that degree of hypoxia is mild compared to higher elevations, which is why one wouldn't gain much benefit from exposure to an altitude like Timberline. The positive study on live high-train low, was done in Utah. The athletes lived in Park City and then came down to Salt Lake City to train. The key aspect of this was that it required a lot of time each day at the higher elevation for there to be any benefit. There has actually been quite a lot of very good high altitude research since Houston's book, which came out a long time ago. It covers a huge range of topics and is not just focused on narrow issues like whether training in a hypoxic room makes a difference.
  8. altitude training?

    I'm no expert, but I remember myself and others sometimes getting the dry heaves after prolonged hard exertion. I assumed that was due to a weak diaphragm? Nope... not the reason at all.
  9. altitude training?

    There is a notion out there that some of these training strategies like the masks are useful because they help make the diaphragm stronger. Diaphragm strength is not really a limiting factor for normal individuals at heavy levels of exercise. In fact, with heavy exercise, you recruit a lot of other breathing muscles into the process (intercostal muscles, for example) to assist with ventilation. That being said, normal people who lack underlying lung disease are not limited in their ability to exercise by their breathing muscles at all. If you do detailed cardiopulmonary exercise testing on normal individuals you see that at peak exercise, most people have lots of ventilatory reserve (i.e., their breathing muscles have much more to give). They are limited by the ability of their heart to pump sufficient blood to the exercising muscles. That is what reaches its maximum first.
  10. altitude training?

    This would probably fall in the category of "things not likely to help, but likely to take some of your money." There has long been interest in the idea of training at high altitude. Years ago, elite endurance athletes did this (for example, cyclists living and training in Colorado). It was found this wasn't effective for race training, however, because maximum exercise capacity decreases at altitude and the athletes were not able to hit and sustain the top speeds they would be racing at lower elevations. Several years back, interest developed in a different model... live high - train low in which people resided at higher elevations but came down to lower elevation to train. The data on this has been mixed with one study out of Utah showing a benefit and another nicely done randomized trial in Europe showing no benefit. The one kicker from the study in Utah is that in order to derive a benefit the athletes had to spend a lot of time living at altitude each day (> 20 hours) and it needed to be done for a while. Altitude rooms like the one at this gym are now popping up and there is no systematic evidence in the research literature that they are of any benefit. The major problem is that the duration of exposure is probably far too short to lead to significant physiologic benefit. A one hour session just a few times a week isn't likely to do much. It's the more sustained exposures to hypoxia that are likely of greater benefit. There is growing evidence that intermittent hypoxic exposures can yield a variety of benefits but no one really knows the exact recipe of those exposures for generating benefit with exercise performance or climbing. A lot of high altitude mountaineers have started to use the high altitude tents as preparation for their climbs. In fact, some guiding outfits are now having clients use these prior to big mountain climbs and using it as a way to shorten acclimatization time on the mountain. The data on this are also very limited with one study showing decreased incidence of acute mountain sickness after 14 days of use when the person went up to 4500 m in elevation. There is no good evidence yet that it leads to benefit at extreme elevations. No harm in using it (aside from the cost and sleeping apart from your partner who may not appreciate the tent much). A key difference between this and the gym that may account for some benefit would be that people spend more time in the tent each night and do it daily as opposed to the random hour here or there at the gym. While we're at it... you might as well give up on the high altitude masks popularized by Marshawn Lynch. The purported explanations for how they simulate high altitude make no sense from a physiologic perspective. They are likely good at making exercise feel miserable however because you're now breathing against far more airflow resistance.
  11. Exposure to high altitude poses a risk of developing one of three forms of acute altitude illness: acute mountain sickness, high altitude cerebral edema and high altitude pulmonary edema. Medications are available to prevent these problems and are commonly used by travelers at moderate elevations (e.g., 3000-5000 m) for this purpose. Recent reports suggest that climbers traveling to extremely high elevations on Mount Everest and other peaks are also using these medications to improve physical performance and/or increase their odds of reaching the summit without developing altitude illness. Despite these reports, little is known about exactly how common these practices are. We are conducting a research survey in order to estimate the number of climbers on Mount Everest who are using medications in this manner. People who have attempted to climb Mount Everest – whether they were successful in summiting or not – are eligible to participate. If are eligible and choose to participate, you will find a link to the anonymous on-line survey at the bottom of this email. The survey will less than 20 minutes to complete and does not require you to provide any personal information. Participation in this study is voluntary. You may decline to answer any question in the survey. All of the information you provide in the survey will remain anonymous and no one will be able to identify you from the information you provide in the survey. Although you will not benefit directly from this survey, we anticipate that information learned from the survey will help guide medical practice with regard to climbers on Mount Everest and other large Himalayan mountains. If you have any questions, feel free to email us at aluks@u.washington.edu, although please be reminded that the confidentiality of emails cannot be guaranteed. We appreciate your time and effort in completing this survey and look forward to reviewing the information you provide. Click here to complete this survey: https://catalyst.uw.edu/webq/survey/aluks/252982 If the link does not work, you can copy and paste it in your web browser. PLEASE REMEMBER TO CLICK ON "SUBMIT" AT THE END OF THE SURVEY TO ENSURE THAT YOUR ANSWERS ARE ALL SAVED PROPERLY. Sincerely, Andrew M. Luks, MD Associate Professor, Pulmonary and Critical Care Medicine University of Washington Luanne Freer, MD Everest ER Himalayan Rescue Association Colin Grissom, MD Professor of Medicine University of Utah Peter Hackett, MD Institute for High Altitude Medicine Telluride, Colorado
  12. Sierra Mountaineering in March

    The park service doesn't handle the roads on the east side of the Sierra. They are generally handled by CalTrans. The road to South Lake is not open year round. It is a 7-mile or spur off the road to Lake Sabrina and is often closed until into spring depending on the snow conditions. You can get pretty good beta on the road access by giving the folks at Mammoth Mountaineering or Wilson's Eastside Sports a call. You might also check out this discussion board: http://www.whitneyzone.com/wz/