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Doug_Hutchinson

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About Doug_Hutchinson

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  • Location
    DirtyFacePk/N.BeaconHill
  1. Wayne and I climbed this route on Sunday, thank you FAs! A really fun great addition. I think we had more ice on the mixed pitches than you (one week later) so could use screws most of the way. P2 was especially fun but both the mixed pitches were really great. Hope it doesn't fall apart during the warm up before more people can check it out. The top of P1 (right after the pillar) and the end of the last pitch had no barely any ice when we climbed it. Before I saw this, I posted some super shitty pics in the OR/WA thread in the ice climbing forum on this site (but yours are much better). You guys are on fire in Bridge River canyon with new routes!
  2. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Add - uploading IG photos to CC.com from my phone in the back of a bar was so easy with the new software even I could do it after a few drinks, but they sure look funny (more saturated and pixelated) now that I am in front of a computer. Oh well, any content is better than no content.
  3. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Just like everyone knows the best rock climbing area in Oregon is Beacon Rawk, in years like this one the best WA ice is found in Lil'wet. A cold air mass has been parked north of the border for the past several weeks so the ice up there now is good. On Saturday, Wayne and I climbed Capricorn = a classic Lillooet WI5 in the isolated Bridge River Valley. Sunday, we got the second ascent of Bitcoin Billionaire, a route first climbed a week ago by Danny O'Farrell, Hunter Lee and Steve Janes located a little out of view of the top of the pic above. It is a 7 pitch, M5/6, WI4 insta-classic with all the alpine essentials: a river ford, a snow slog to the base high up the valley, a fragile pillar start, two cool mixed chimneys, and a final phat curtain. The only thing missing was a bear attack, maybe someday.
  4. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Did a quick drive by Banks on way home from Canada yesterday. I would describe conditions as anemic. There isn't enough moisture from seeps or snow melt to build chubby ice now. None of the Devil's Punch Bowl climbs or Champagne are close. Here are shitty pics of the best ice I saw. Children of the Sun, the Cable (can TR but fragile), Xenith (not close):
  5. Arc'Teryx Alpha Comp jacket, medium, macaw. Bought at the sample sale, never used. Still has tag. Fantastic hybrid jacket (Goretex where you need it stretch soft shell where you don't) for climbing and backcountry skiing. I like it so much, I had to buy a backup (this one) but I have way too many shells now, so selling. I work in downtown Seattle and live on Beacon Hill so can meet in either location. Please reply to Craig's List ad: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/6043465261.html More info: The Arc'teryx Men's Alpha Comp Hoody is a hybrid jacket for weather protection and warmth while ice and alpine climbing. The Alpha Comp is versatile, using dual construction of fabrics to provide weather protection at the hood, shoulders, forearms, and hem with stretch through the core and underarms. The Fortius 1.0 fabric is stretchy and helps regulate heat. The trim fit falls to the hip, staying out of the way of climbing gear so you can focus on the next movement instead of adjusting your jacket. The hand pockets are lifted and won't get in the way of your harness, even if you have a snack tucked inside. Complete with a durable water repellent finish, the jacket takes on the weather without sacrificing movement or temperature. Pictured here: http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Arcteryx-Men-s-Alpha-Comp-Hoody_10251190_10208_10000001_-1_
  6. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Spent today scratching around Bryant Peak/Alpy Valley environs with Wayne. Ice conditions were surprisingly poor. Waist deep wallows accessed poorly-adhered, weak candle sticks. Chockstone looked in, Flow Reversal had ice but probably not continuous/climbable, and Resistance is Futile is MIA. We attempted the second ascent of Wayne and Laurel's FA from last winter - The Circumvention. Good route in scrappy shape now (but fun trying). Mixed pitches were OK but negligible ice to be found. Great overview sunny shot of this area from yesterday in this TR, first pic shows Bryant Couloir, Flow Reversal and the Circumvention (if you can pick them out under the snow): http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=37320.0 Seems like the cold snap flash froze the ice making machine and big weather changes are required for additional ice making, at least for climbs depending on melt/freeze in this area. I recommend looking for creek-type ice, or better yet, skiing now.
  7. La Sportiva Katana Lace 41.5 $100 SOLD

    SOLD La Sportiva Katana Lace climbing shoes, size 41.5 (performance fit about US 9.5 to 10). Used 5 days - basically new. Too large for my size 9 feet. $100. Outdoor Gear Lab's top all-around shoe: http://m.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoes-Reviews I work in downtown Seattle and live near Seattle Bouldering Project so can meet near either location. Please respond to Craiglist ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5788660229.html
  8. Two pairs of used ice tools, cheap

    Selling two pairs of well-used ice tools: 1) Black Diamond Vipers (first generation) pair - one with hammer and one with adze. Picks still have decent life left and all new BD picks are compatible with these tools. Good all around modern leashless tools. $150 for the pair. 2) Charlet Moser Pulsars pair - one with hammer and one with adze. Includes leashes. Would work great for Cascade mountaineering and as a second tool with a longer ax. $100 for the pair. I am in Seattle and don't really want to ship. Please view and reply to this Craigs List post: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5508771466.html
  9. Banff Ice Conditions thread

    Wayne, no mention about Rocket Man being so in? My ears are still ringing from your orgasmic howls during the drive by. EVERYTHING is in. It is a great season up here. It got pretty cold over the holiday week (O to -20F everyday, so the ice got pretty brittle) but temps are beginning to moderate now. It actually got into the low 20s Fahrenheit today in Field which is the highest I've seen since moving here in mid December
  10. SOLD

    Sorry I left that out. It is a S/M. I am 5'10" and I purposely got the smaller one to ride above a harness but it is probably too small for someone bigger. Note- the Speed40 is the only pack left, the other two are sold.
  11. SOLD

    All three packs sold.
  12. Hyperspace Rockfall Incident Saturday

    We were the second rope team - at the base of the Pressure Chamber when the rock cut loose. Brandon - way to keep it together to finish the pitch. I can't imagine being Florian (sp?) and having that block explode a few feet away (RandyEL - nice meeting you, we were the party that retold the story at the base of the wall). From what I have been seeing Iconoclast and Hyperspace seem to be getting almost as much traffic as Outerspace recently. As everyone else has said, there are still some scary death blocks remaining both where the rockfall happened at the top of the pitch below the 11a yellow alt pitch on Iconoclast, and the somewhat boot-shaped block wedged in on the first Hyperspace pitch. I expect no love for this opinion but between the loose blocks and increased traffic, bolted belay anchors (in rock that aint going nowhere) would be a nice addition to Iconoclast and Hyperspace.
  13. [TR] Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston Yardsale 2/22/2015

    All aboard. Roj and I sent today quickly followed by Colin and Sara Hart. Today was a good day. Never afraid of superlatives, this is the best ice route in WA and is currently under fantastic conditions. The crux is a rad WI6 dagger, super solid now. The 'shrund at the base is gonna stop access soon though. And, yes, I am honoring the tradition of posting about the Polish Route under Cosley Houston TRs.
  14. adidas outdoor presents REINHOLD MESSNER

    So then, Roskelley might not be guaranteed your vote if he runs for office again? No doubt some of the questions were simply stupid even if they were an attempt at humor ("what is your favorite brand of lawnmower" WTF?) but I really liked the format of a casual fireside chat between friends as opposed to a completely reverential moderator asking the usual boring questions he has been asked a zillion times and I doubt the Mounties could have found someone else that Reinhold could feel as relaxed with. I have seen Reinhold about 15 years ago and the first half slide show was basically identical. During the Roskelley chat, I learned more about him than through his books and slideshow. Even through the dumb lawn mower question we learned that Reinhold's wife "wears the pants in the family" and she basically takes care of the castle. I liked the questions about his view of the Dawn Wall and the two recent Ueli Steck controversies and hearing Reinhold soften on style matters ("I have changed my view and I am less concerned about the style someone climbs anymore and more that they are honest about what style they used" or something like that). Anyway, although at times awkward it appeared to me that Reinhold was comfortable and having fun. This was a far cry from the Reinhold I saw the day before when he crashed our private Super Bowl party and watched in horror the spectacle of American football warts and all (i.e., with rabid 12th men jumping up and down, a booming PA system and 5 feet from a 100" screen). It was like dropping the Dali Lama in front row seats at a mixed martial arts fight - Reinhold was definitely not into it. Does he look like he is having fun? Lastly, Roskelley being happy/goofy was nice change from most elder PNW mountaineers who I usually find way too serious. Long winded way of saying, I liked the format and Roskelley was the probably the right man for the job but he needed an editor (EVERYONE needs an editor). And yes, obviously, my whole reason for replying is a chance to show off that pic.
  15. The new Index route du jour! Wayne and I climbed it last weekend. Loved the first and last pitches. Funny how a climb put up 8 years ago is now on everyone's radar.
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