[TR] Mt Hood - Old Chute 5/16/2012

[pioneerian]

Trip: Mt Hood - Old Chute

 

Date: 5/16/2012

 

Trip Report:

Tis the Season for the long list of Mt Hood south side TRs. This report isn't so much a report on the climb itself but instead on a good lesson learned.

 

The preparation started a week or so before, watching the high temps, special avi reports, and seeing the numerous posts from people saying they'll be staying home. All the data was pointing towards not the best time for a summit attempt. I also tend to lean a little more towards the conservative side of mountaineering as well.

 

When it came time for the "go" or "no go" call the day before, I couldn't resist. I mean a day on the mountain not reaching or even attempting the summit is still a day on the mountain. When you think of it, it usually isn't much of a decision.

 

My two partners and I headed out and camped above the Palmer. We wanted a little extra time to enjoy the mild weather and also to check out the Leuthold Route for the next climb.

 

3 AM came and the snow was still slop at 9000'. We decided to hit the "snooze" and go for some crevasse rescue practice instead.

 

Then 7 AM came and when we strolled out of the tent, the conditions were perfect. I don't know how but everything set up solid as could be and the race was on. The sun was already over steel cliff, lighting up the crater lead to a feeling of disappointment that we most likely missed our opportunity. Conventional wisdom says, "it's too late in the day, it's too warm, other people are turning back, listen to the special avi reports." Maybe not the best day?

 

I took a second to clear the conventional wisdom cloud and evaluated what I was seeing. No ice falling, solid snow, my partners and I cruising from the extra sleep, no rope teams clogging the route, and a solid wind keeping the snow melt at a minimum... It's perfect!

 

We decided to make a run for it. From the hogsback to the summit via the Old Chute and back to the hogsback took 50 minutes. Down before any major ice fall (>6").

 

 

It was good lesson that listening to and watching the conditions and being aware of the environment is one of, if not most important tool you have while climbing.

 

We finished up the day checking out the crevasses and recent avalanche slides on the Reid (there were 9) and interrupted a photo-shoot at the Silcox.

 

I've never been much of a peak bagger, always going with the philosophy that the mountain will always be there. But wow, does the beer taste that much better after standing on top of a cascade mountain.

 

Gear Notes:

Axe, Crampons, Helmet, Rope, Picketts, and the kitchen sink.

[Whatcomboy]

Good attitude. We have done that before. Poke the head out of tent, socked in or raining, bummer. Catch a couple hours of sleep, look again and clear sky, go for it.

[123tom]

Nice, evaluating conditions on the mount is always more accurate than any forecast or report

[Khartoum Wood]

My first time on hood I nearly shit my pants second to last pic it's somthing you don't forget walking across that 2ft wide ridge looking down this is what makes this climb so cool.