[TR] Icy Peak - Icy Peak via Ruth Mt. 8/27/2016

[aceKronan]

Trip: Icy Peak - Icy Peak via Ruth Mt.

 

Date: 8/27/2016

 

Trip Report:

Met up and went through gear at Hannegan Trailhead 7am. On the trail by 730, GeoSean setting a brisk pace. Trail in good shape and made the pass in 1.5 hrs. Fill up on water either before this or a the Ruth glacier(just one little scum pond between). Just crampons and ice axe out on Ruth. Stayed along rock ridge as long as possible, made the glacier and headed straight to under the lard rock outcropping protruding along the ridge. Followed under this to the summit at 3hrs. A few minutes on the summit, then continued along the ridge down following the internet gouge to the gully on the right that does not look inviting. Followed that down and back left to under the rock and scrambled down through the brush to gain the ridge down to the saddle. Continued along the ridge and gained the glacier snow as late as possible. Aimed for snowy notch left of the large lateral open crevasses, then cut high back west to the notch travelling through the rock fall debris. Made the notch, scrambled up the back side and summited via the first left gully cleaned by climbers (Class III we thought, and not as bad as I was thinking). Summit to the left as you reach the rappel station. Made Icy at 6Hrs, back to car in 5Hrs. Car to car 11 Hours. [img:center][/img]

 

Gear Notes:

Took a lot of gear, rope, harness, crevasse gear. Didn't use any of it, but then again, would have only needed it had I not brought it.

 

Approach Notes:

Met a couple at the summit, they used a rope to rappel, my climber partner, the purist did not use it, I used a rappel since it was offered and set up. On the way back, went climbers left around Ruth Mt. and traversed in snow in shoes to the low notch. Snow a little warmer and easier to maneuver. On north side of Ruth, Put crampons on again to traverse back east to gain Ruth North ridge and retraced steps back down along ridge. Snow was a little soft and traversing was step step slip etc.

[geosean]

Thank you for the praise. I.e. "brisk" and "purist"; I love it.

 

It was a great trip with lots of time in the alpine for the effort. Plus you get to see a real geographic anomaly... the longest 4 mile in the world coming back from Hannegan Pass.