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Trip: Mt Challenger - Easy Ridge / Perfect Pass

 

Date: 7/24/2016

 

Trip Report:

Mt Challenger via Easy Ridge and Perfect Pass is not exactly easy but overall it's a rather perfect climb full of typical north cascade challenge®s.

 

Brian and I left the trailhead just before 10 on Saturday morning after getting overnight permits at the ranger station in Glacier. Protip: despite the website saying otherwise, apparently you can self register during off hours for certain backcountry camping zones in NOCA, including Easy Ridge. Had we known this we would have been on the trail a bit earlier. No worries though, cloudy skies kept temps cool and our pace quick. 11 miles to the Chilliwack crossing, an easy ford, then an exceptionally good abandoned trail up several thousand feet to Easy Ridge.

 

Views were mostly obscured, dampening our spirits a bit and wondering if we were going to get the typical bad picket weather while the rest of the state was bluebird. We met a trio of climbers on Easy Peak who had suffered that scenario the same day.

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We traversed the long ridge and made camp in the early evening at the lowest spot in the ridge between Easy Peak and Whatcom Peak.

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Sunday morning we woke up at dawn and dropped down to the "Perfect Impasse", a deep narrow gorge with a potential 4th scramble route around the top. In the early morning light the downsloping scramble looked exposed, slimy, and definitely x-rated. Possessing more fitness than boldness, we shrugged our shoulders and dropped down 800' to the easy walk across.

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A steep jungle schwack and some scrambling on the far side of the gorge took us up to heather meadows and then talus and slabs up to Perfect Pass. Overall the added detour probably only took us an extra hour and a half.

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From the pass, a long rising traverse took us across the extensive Challenger Glacier.

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We then made a u-turn and headed up towards the peak which is hidden from view. Don't aim for the visible false western summit. The bergshrund was easily passed on climbers left via steep snow up to a snow arete before the rocky summit. A short overstated 5.7 rock pitch with 5 fixed pieces for protection led us to the wildly exposed and remote summit.

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Where we were rewarded with amazing views in all directions including Fury, Luna Cirque, and looking back at Easy Ridge with Whatcom Peak close by

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Reversing the route and we were back to Perfect Pass 6 hours after leaving it. Dropping down from the pass we realized we were basically committed to doing the drop down again since we had skipped the impasse bypass in the morning. So close yet so far.

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On the slog back up talus I saw a rock with a cool pocket of large crystals. My rockhound father would be impressed!

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Back at camp after a long but beautiful 14 hour day we were rewarded with a nice sunset lighting up the pickets

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Monday we woke up and traversed Easy Ridge with much better views than two days earlier.

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And settled into a looong walk out.

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Overall a highly rewarding trip. Miles are long, but a light pack, good weather, and great partner made for a very satisfying climb!

 

Gear Notes:

We brought a few nuts but didn't use them.

 

Approach Notes:

Hannegan Pass. If you miss the turnoff for Easy Ridge then you're REALLY not paying attention, it's super obvious.

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