[TR] South Early Winter Spire - South West Couloir 4/30/2016

[cjm84]

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - South West Couloir

 

Date: 4/30/2016

 

Trip Report:

We made a trip up South Early Winter Spire via the SW Couloir on Saturday. We parked at the Blue Lake Trail Head and made our way through the woods to the large clearing below the Winter Spires. The snow was very firm and took crampons well.

 

We climbed past the chockstone and up to the fork in the couloir, where we decided to pitch it out (not exactly necessary - we ran into a friendly group of 3 out that day that didn't rope up). A lot of the upper section of the couloir has melted out already, making for some loose choss/rocks. We stuck to the sides of the gully, where there are some good holds to use. To protect the route, we used some snow pickets and cams. A second tool was nice to have, but not necessary, for the steep snow.

 

The last little scramble up the rocks to the summit is pretty much snow free. While there are some rap stations you can use on the way down, we opted to down climb the couloir with the crampons on. Leisurely returned to the car the same way we came.

 

The SW Couloir

 

 

On the way up

 

At the top of the couloir

 

Couloir conditions

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Used some pickets and cams (.5 and .75). Second tool was nice to have.

 

Approach Notes:

Started at Blue Lake Trail Head. Parking lot is still snowed in - there was parking available on the side of the high way. Trail is snowed over right now.

[ilias]

Nice! Looks like a fun day! Seems like it's about to be rock climbing season up there.

[James M Schroede]

Looks fun.

[sugiyama_ss]

Here's a view down the upper couloir on Sunday.

 

 

The South Arete would be a better choice the rest of the season.