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Posted

Looking for a partner to climb Mt Adams on xmas. The weather looks pretty good. I've never climbed a big mountain like this before but have all the gear except a 2 man bivy or mountaineering tent, crampons, and an ice axe. Was wanting to do the South Climb route as it seems to be a relatively non technical route up the mountain. I propose to leave xmas eve night camp at the snow park outside of Trout Lake. Snowshoe and climb into the Lunch Counter xmas day. Then summit and return to the vehicles on the 26th.

 

If that sounds like a plan anyone would be a part of call or text me at 206-384-1713.

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Posted

I appreciate the concern. As far as planning goes I have been watching the weather for the last week and its turning favorable from the 24-26. I also completed a AIRES 1 course this last weekend. While this doesn't make me an expert it gives me more knowledge and tools to work with. I have also been mapping the route on AVANET and Caltopo and watching the avalanche bulletin for the southeast Cascades.

 

If I'm missing anything I'm all ears and would love to learn more.

Posted
... The weather looks pretty good. I've never climbed a big mountain like this before...
I have been watching the weather for the last week and its turning favorable from the 24-26...

If I'm missing anything I'm all ears and would love to learn more.

Given what you have posted I think you are in for a rude introduction to winter mountaineering. Weather forecasting for Mt. Adams is hit and miss so you should assume you will encounter very high winds and white out conditions. Avalanche hazards aside, you are in for one hell of a wallow. And that weather window might be long enough for some snow to consolidate, but it's not long enough for you to then go climb AFTER that consolidation period, nor is it long enough for SAR teams to get to you before spring.

I would dial back my goal to just reaching the Lunch Counter, with plans in place to bale and save yourself if conditions warrant it. With that more modest goal in mind, you will still encounter avi slopes that haven't had time to settle and slide, and again, the current forecast shows no weather window for a rescue.

 

If you make the summit you can break trail for me anytime, except... I probably wouldn't pick you for a partner until you've developed a more conservative mindset. :)

Best of luck. Be safe and consider the safety of others you might put at risk if you need a rescue.

Posted

Yeah your right. Might you suggest an even more modest climb in the Cascades. My background is fair weather rock climbing in the Southeast, so weather and definitely snow is not a huge concern most of the time.

 

Theres a lot to learn out here. I need to dial it back and start with small goals that build upon each other before I try something as big as this, especially in winter.

 

Thanks

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