Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
ptownclimber

[TR] Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier 6/21/2015

Recommended Posts

Trip: Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier

 

Date: 6/21/2015

 

Trip Report:

A lot of people are asking about Jeff, so I figured it's time to write it up.

 

What we found was a LOT of melt out from this TR last month...

May 15 Jeff Park

 

Or what we saw a couple years ago in a high snow year...

June 2011

 

Jeff_Park_699.JPG

 

The approach was snow free but the mosquitoes were out in force. We camped at about 7,200 on scree. Plenty of nice bivy spots. We found running snow melt but there is lots of silt - bring some coffee filters. There was just enough of a breeze to keep the mossies at bay. The solstice sunset and sunrise were pretty epic.

 

Jeff_Park_648.JPGJeff_Park_640.JPG

 

We started climbing at 1am. We ascended the far left (east) side of Jeff park, and turned right at the base of the bergschrund. There is a lot of rockfall - streaks of debris and rocks melting into snow. Even at that hour there was running water up at the bergschrund.

 

We crossed the bergschrund with a ~waist high step up into the debris runnel (then immediately out of it). This move will likely be getting higher and higher and may soon be impassible.

 

Once we gained the ridge, we simul climbed from snow onto rock with crampons on. The rock section is fairly easy climbing. We had some rock pro and used it. The ridge turns back to snow, steep in some places. We found a few ice screw placements.

 

The summit pinnacle still had a good bit of ice coverage. We'd gotten some good parking lot beta to avoid rapping off the EAST side. We descended to red saddle with two raps and a traverse, then walked down and around the whitewater glacier. We saw lots of debris and rockfall on that side of the mountain. We were really glad we didn't try that descent.

 

We were back at camp around 3 and back at the car around 5.

 

I was surprised how little snow was left on the mountain, and how much fun it was without the snow.

 

 

Jeff_Park_673.JPGJeff_Park_672.JPG

 

Jeff_Park_624.JPGJeff_Park_630.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

We had 5 pickets and used 4. Used one ice screw, a small cam, a couple stoppers and tri cams. Also long slings.

 

Approach Notes:

long sleeves and bug spray advisable.

Edited by ptownclimber

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done it in totally snow-free conditions from the saddle above the glacier... the whole ridge is cruiser when it's bare, but the rock is SHIT. I can't believe you found any cracks stable enough to stick pro.

 

I'm a little confused on your descent, though - you said you got beta to not rap off the west side, but saw debris on the east side and were glad you didn't go that way - which way did you go? If that snow on the west face of the pinnacle isn't soup by descent time, that should offer a good downclimb option, no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for posting the report. It's very helpful to see the pics. Could you tell me how long your rope was? You said it took 2 raps from the summit. Would 35m rope be sufficient? Planning to climb this next weekend via the SW ridge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry. Got beta not to rap off the EAST side. So we rapped off the SW corner towards red saddle. The snow was firm enough for a good descent there.

 

I've done it in totally snow-free conditions from the saddle above the glacier... the whole ridge is cruiser when it's bare, but the rock is SHIT. I can't believe you found any cracks stable enough to stick pro.

 

I'm a little confused on your descent, though - you said you got beta to not rap off the west side, but saw debris on the east side and were glad you didn't go that way - which way did you go? If that snow on the west face of the pinnacle isn't soup by descent time, that should offer a good downclimb option, no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×