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ldr66

[TR] Yet another Dragontail TC Report...

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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 4/20/2015

 

Trip Report:

Like many of you, we'd been envious of all the activity on Dragontail until we finally got our turn. TC was in probably as good as shape as it can get. The ice was so good that when we got to the first runnel we decided to keep on going and soloed up the first pitch to the usual belay spot. The second pitch was equally delightful!

 

The rest of the climb went without a hitch and a big thanks to all the folks on the GST (Gerber-Sink Thruway) the day before who left a staircase up the last half of the third couloir.

 

Fun story of the day...my partner dropped one of his nice new BD gloves about a hundred meters from the top, only to find it waiting for him at the base right where where we put our crampons on.

 

Left the car at 4am and topped out at 11:30am to blue, windless skies.

 

 

Jordan2.jpg

 

 

Jordan4.jpg

 

 

Crux6.jpg

 

 

Dragontail_-_Route.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

3-4 screws, 2 pickets, 3 cams and a few nuts. Used most of it.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy as can be!

Edited by ldr66

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If you belay at the beginning of the first runnel, it's about two full pitches to the next couloir. I'd rate this first pitch at WI2 when we did it (solid, easy ice at 60-70 degrees). In the first photo Jordan is about 2/3rds the way up this first pitch.

 

This brings you to the second belay, an obvious shallow alcove on your right (.5 and .75 Camalots work well here). From there, the second pitch traverses up, slightly left (see the next photo above) and then goes straight up to the narrow runnel (next photo) to the bottom of the second couloir. I'd put this pitch at WI2+ (75+ degrees with some small rests) and was more solid water ice than the 'snice' found through the rest of this section.

 

It's all considered easy by ice climbing standards. But given that it's not always easy to hone your skills and gain confidence on ice here in WA, "easy" is not necessarily that easy. And then there's the exposure factor, but that's always a part of alpine climbing.

 

The second runnel getting between the second and third couloir is much shorter and less steep...more of an afterthought once you get through the first one. Have fun!

Edited by ldr66

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