Long Moderate Routes in Central ID?

[gzack]

Hi all,

 

I'm from the Portland area and looking to get some recommendations for long moderate routes in the Central Idaho area that I can climb with my little cousins (13-16 yrs) who live in Boise. They're in good shape/enthusiastic about climbing, and I've taken them to the crag a few times. I'm looking for 300-1000' routes, preferably in the 5.4-5.7 range, but short stretches of 5.8 would be do-able. I know of the Regular Route at Slick Rock out by McCall. Anything in the Sawtooths? Long approaches aren't a problem for us. Thanks a bunch!

[Prussik]

If you head to Slick Route, it might be worthwhile to check out Memorial (to the right of the Regular Route). There are a few bits of 5.8, it's ~8 pitches, all sport. The South Fork of the Clearwater (outside of Grangeville) also has some climbing on Lightning Dome, but I believe it is harder than what you are looking for. If you want to go "cragging" it might be worth your while to check out the Pins & Needles outside of Donnelly, Id. Have fun!

[mccallboater]

What do you consider moderate? There are tons of routes in the Sawtooths and Pioneers under 5.10 and up to 13 or so pitches (especially in the Pioneers). This time of year access is still an issue, but with the marginal snow a lot of the trailheads are opening up two months ahead of schedule. Check out some of the older threads in this section.

[Kevin Hansen ID]

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z273/pmcgrane/Sky%20Pilot/P1010193.jpg

Sounds to me like "SKY PILOT" 5.7 on 11,280 is just what your looking for. Also in the same neighborhood is a route on Devils Bed Stead East. The third route I'd point you to is "Stur Chimney" 5.7 on Mount Hayburn near Red Fish Lake.

 

I've enjoyed sport climbing, I've paid my dues on big walls, questioned myself every time I get the screaming barfys on ice, heck I've even tolerated the dirty trail on Borah far too many times. But the real good stuff, the real cream of the crop is solid Alpine Trad climbing at 10,000 feet. I love, love, love just climbing tame, 5.6 to 5.9 pitch after pitch after pitch till the sun goes down. Its the stuff of romance, the stuff of adventure, that transforms you from what you were to what you are now.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/105717/thread/1343019856/Peak+11280

http://sawtoothguides.com/rock-alpine-climbing/alpine-climbing/

Post a TR after you knock off some of these.

Kevin

[Kevin Hansen ID]

Oh, I found another source.

 

http://www.idahoaclimbingguide.com/pat-mcgranes-wildhorse-classics-guide/

 

Kevin

[gzack]

Thank you everyone for your responses. Looks like the trip is gonna be focused around the McCall area afterall, so Slickrock will definately be on our list.

 

I would like to go check out the Pins & Needles also, and am looking at the Klosof guide now... Are there any must-do classics up there, 5.9 or under?

 

We might also take a few days to head to the Sawtooths and possibly get on Open Book on the Finger of Fate, and the Mountaineers Route at the Elephants Perch. Anyone have rack recommendations for the latter? I'm not sure what a "standard rack" is haha.

[shapp]

I have climbed slick rock twice, the first time was the regular route in the mid 1990s, great time, before there were any fixed belays. The second time was in the early 2000s, climbed straight up to the large chimeny area on the right following the line of least resistance.

 

Climbed the open book on the Finger of Fate in 2007, see trip report with gear recommends

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/717145/TR_Finger_of_Fate_Open_Book_8_#Post717145

 

Of note, do not underestimate the difficulty of rock climbing when you are at over 9000 feet, but you live at near sea level. The altitude was kicking my ass. It is a hump up the hill too from Hell roaring lake to the base.

Edited June 24, 2015 by shapp