Jump to content

Long Moderate Routes in Central ID?


Recommended Posts

Hi all,


I'm from the Portland area and looking to get some recommendations for long moderate routes in the Central Idaho area that I can climb with my little cousins (13-16 yrs) who live in Boise. They're in good shape/enthusiastic about climbing, and I've taken them to the crag a few times. I'm looking for 300-1000' routes, preferably in the 5.4-5.7 range, but short stretches of 5.8 would be do-able. I know of the Regular Route at Slick Rock out by McCall. Anything in the Sawtooths? Long approaches aren't a problem for us. Thanks a bunch!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 6
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you head to Slick Route, it might be worthwhile to check out Memorial (to the right of the Regular Route). There are a few bits of 5.8, it's ~8 pitches, all sport. The South Fork of the Clearwater (outside of Grangeville) also has some climbing on Lightning Dome, but I believe it is harder than what you are looking for. If you want to go "cragging" it might be worth your while to check out the Pins & Needles outside of Donnelly, Id. Have fun!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

What do you consider moderate? There are tons of routes in the Sawtooths and Pioneers under 5.10 and up to 13 or so pitches (especially in the Pioneers). This time of year access is still an issue, but with the marginal snow a lot of the trailheads are opening up two months ahead of schedule. Check out some of the older threads in this section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...


Sounds to me like "SKY PILOT" 5.7 on 11,280 is just what your looking for. Also in the same neighborhood is a route on Devils Bed Stead East. The third route I'd point you to is "Stur Chimney" 5.7 on Mount Hayburn near Red Fish Lake.


I've enjoyed sport climbing, I've paid my dues on big walls, questioned myself every time I get the screaming barfys on ice, heck I've even tolerated the dirty trail on Borah far too many times. But the real good stuff, the real cream of the crop is solid Alpine Trad climbing at 10,000 feet. I love, love, love just climbing tame, 5.6 to 5.9 pitch after pitch after pitch till the sun goes down. Its the stuff of romance, the stuff of adventure, that transforms you from what you were to what you are now.



Post a TR after you knock off some of these.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you everyone for your responses. Looks like the trip is gonna be focused around the McCall area afterall, so Slickrock will definately be on our list.


I would like to go check out the Pins & Needles also, and am looking at the Klosof guide now... Are there any must-do classics up there, 5.9 or under?


We might also take a few days to head to the Sawtooths and possibly get on Open Book on the Finger of Fate, and the Mountaineers Route at the Elephants Perch. Anyone have rack recommendations for the latter? I'm not sure what a "standard rack" is haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have climbed slick rock twice, the first time was the regular route in the mid 1990s, great time, before there were any fixed belays. The second time was in the early 2000s, climbed straight up to the large chimeny area on the right following the line of least resistance.


Climbed the open book on the Finger of Fate in 2007, see trip report with gear recommends



Of note, do not underestimate the difficulty of rock climbing when you are at over 9000 feet, but you live at near sea level. The altitude was kicking my ass. It is a hump up the hill too from Hell roaring lake to the base.

Edited by shapp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...