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[TR] Squamish- Tantalus Wall - Tantalus Wall 5.11C A0 8/25/2014


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Trip: Squamish- Tantalus Wall - Tantalus Wall 5.11C A0


Date: 8/25/2014


Trip Report:

You don't hear much about this route and now I know why. Feels kinda wild with lots of burly climbing.


I would only recommend this route if you've already done all the classics around town and/or like getting away from the crowds. Oh and the tree belay is the best belay in the world, not kidding. Might be worth the 50M OW lead just to experience this belay.


P1 5.11C. Opening moves is a bananas hard bolt protected boulder problem. 5.11c? Really? Goes into a harsh pin scarred crack. Lots of pin scares on this route which is unusual for Squamish.


P2. 5.10 OW. Brutal, 50M of 4-6 inch crack. I got smashed on this pitch. For a point of reference I thought Hypertension was easier. We only had 1x #5 cam. If I was doing it again I'd bring 1x #5 and 1x #6 and still walk them in front of me. There is some smaller gear in the back of the crack near the top but placing little gear deep in this gash is tough.


P3. Dirty 5.8 to big ledge.


P4. 5.11B. Wide corner climbing with a few ancient bolts goes right to a roof. Pull roof and into thin, pin scared crack. Pin scared crack was tough, flaring locks and trick gear. Not the usual Squamish splitter.


P5. 5.11B More of the same, pin scared thin crack. In spots the crack pinches down so it wouldn't be possible to French Free. Tough for the grade.


Crazy tree belay below roof. No joke, God created this belay just to be enjoyed. Thick tree is growing straight horizontal under a roof. Lay on your back in this tree and belay from bolts attached to wall.


P6. 5.11A Aid bolt ladder to crack system to the right, tension into crack. Wild swing for the follower. More 5.11 to a shitty bolted stance.


P7 5.11B. Up hard crack and then bust right onto slab (spooky!) to join up with the bolted slabs on Cerberus. Follow bolts wondering left to moderate crack and belay just below summit. The move coming out of the crack to the right looks really scary as there next piece of gear is way off to the right, however once you make a few balance moves you'll get on a nice crystal dyke that is mellow to traverse on.



P8 5.6. 10M. Bump belay to the summit.



Looking up at the tree belay!




Gear Notes:

Lots of small gear and RPs for all the pin scars. Triple up on Red C3-Orange master cam. Doubles up to a #2. 1x #3. Bring Green and Purple C3.


For the OW pitch most parties do it with just 1x #5 and walk it for a very long way. Yikes! 1x #5 and 1x #6 would be better.




Approach Notes:

Skip the first 5.6 pitch and go up fixed hand line.

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