[TR] Mt. Shuksan - North Face 8/2/2014

[tlinn]

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - North Face

 

Date: 8/2/2014

 

Trip Report:

Pete H. and I climbed the North Face on Sunday, August 3rd. We approached on Saturday, Aug. 3. I would classify the bushwack in as mild-moderate via the logging road below the ski hill. A steep descent to White Salmon Creek was reasonably pleasant, followed by a steep ascent up the opposite side of the valley. Approach time was 3-4 hours to the bivy at 1650 meters. We crossed the creek on a log at 800 meters.

 

The face was in good condition. Mostly snow with some ice patches. The bergschrund has opened but was easily passable on the far left side of the face followed by a long rightward traverse. We used two tools each but all of the gear stayed in the pack.

 

A bergschrund has opened up on the Hanging Glacier which was also passable on the rock at the far left side.

 

We had a blonde moment after traversing through the col above the Hanging Glacier and started climbing up the face directly to the summit. Steep 4th class led to the South Ridge which we took to the summit. This is not the standard route as we realized once we hit the South Ridge. I'm not sure what route this is but judging by the old rap tat this is not the first time this has happened.

The descent was very straight forward down the standard route through Hells Highway and the Upper Curtis Glacier/Fisher Chimneys.

 

We very much appreciated stashing a bike at the Lake Anne trailhead as we were both pretty tired and in dire need of a beer. Descending the road on the bike was a great way to complete a grand adventure. Highly recommended!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Carried 1 picket each and six screws. Didn't use any.

 

Approach Notes:

Take the logging road at the hairpin turn a few minutes down the highway from Chair 8 at the Mt. Baker ski area. Drive the road until it starts to climb steeply back up hill. Park, and bushwack through second growth to White Salmon Creek and then climb the opposite side to gain the ridge opposite the ski hill. Follow the ridge line to the bivy at 1650 meters.

[dave schultz]

We very much appreciated stashing a bike at the Lake Anne trailhead as we were both pretty tired and in dire need of a beer. Descending the road on the bike was a great way to complete a grand adventure. Highly recommended!

 

It's also a good way to start the adventure as you can end the hike out with a beer at the Lake Anne TH. It amazing to go 10+ miles (if going all the way down) without even needing to peddle.

 

Sounds like a fun high mileage day.