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north ridge of adams


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Did the Mazama Route last weekend / September 22-23


After a super late start Friday night- Saturday morning, my two partners and I reached the sunrise camp below the Mazama Glacier about 3:45 on Saturday afternoon. We set off shortly there after to set wands through the first crevasse field so we could easily find our way when we sent off before sunrise. We used these 2.5' wire marking flags - the type that might be used to mark an underground sprinkler or some shit...they're alot easier to get in the ice and stayed put. After setting wands we sat at camp and cheered on the constant rock and icefall. At one point, a large chunk from the first icefall (above the lower mazama glacier) broke and slid about 100 yards only to be swallowed up by a giant crevasse just below. We set off around 5:30, heading up the lower right side of the mazama then diagonally up to the left of the icefall, surmounting the icefall requires a bit of zig-zaging. From here it was essentially a clear shot across the glacier to the head wall to the false summit, with a few leaps of faith thrown in the mix for good measure. Everything is opened up and fairly easy to navigate. We reached the false summit around 10 o’clock and took a nice break in some rocks here. Being that the South Trail was closed due to fire, we had only seen one other group of climbers who had made it to the false summit the night before. From the summit, it was a wonderful slog back down the mazama glacier to camp, glisading through the suncups like bump skiing. All and all it took us about 6-7 hours round trip from the sunrise camp. Get a good head start on the sun though...it was super schloppy on the way down. Safe travels.


[This message has been edited by G_Man (edited 09-27-2001).]

[This message has been edited by G_Man (edited 09-27-2001).]

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Headed up the north ridge on the 23rd. Good conditions all the way up to the top, "good" relative to the north ridge.

Heard the south was closed due to fires. Someone left a big 40 of Bud up on top, nice style... leaving trash.

Be careful, bring wands for the upper cap if conditions go bad. There are crevasses on either side of this big field as you ascend. Obvious in good visibility. Wanding on the route of the ridge, if you find it, makes for an easier descent as well.

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