[TR] Squamish - UnBearable. 6/23/2014

[eldiente]

Trip: Squamish - UnBearable.

 

Date: 6/23/2014

 

Trip Report:

Did a newish six pitch route up on the Prow Wall a few weeks ago that deserves more traffic. Very cool position. This routes isn't in the guidebook but there is good beta out there.

 

Follow this link for topo and detailed beta.

 

The Prow Wall as a whole doesn't see a lot of traffic as most of the routes up there are 5.13. UnBearable bypasses the 5.13 and takes you up one of the steepest walls in Squamish. Even though the route is only 6 pitches (5.12) it feels bigger as you climb 4-6 pitches (depends how you do it) on the Apron to get there. Here's my thoughts to add to the published topo

 

P1. 5.10D Very hard flare start, burly climbing (more like 5.11) in a damp corner with hard to place gear, fight for your life.

 

P2.5.10C Bump the belay 20M to the left from the top of P1 and belay the start of P2 from tree. Up dirty ramp and into nice fun layback flake crack. Mellow.

 

P3. 5.11C. Classic pitch. Two bolts protect a tips crack that traverses lead into nice flaky finger crack. First crux is lay-backing bolt protected arete, very committing moves but jugs await. After that it is up into the elevator shaft. Steep double crack system (bear hug style) that feels like Sierra granite. The double cracks look mellow but are slightly over-hanging and gives a solid pump.

 

P4. 5.12 Tips crack in a double corner. Stem and then eventfully climb left crack, micro gear, hard to get fingers in. Crack goes left under a huge flare roof. Some of the craziest moves I've ever done climbing in here. To traverse left and under roof (finger crack) I laid on my back and slithered and jammed facing the sky with my body horizontal. Gear is good and would be easy to aid.

 

P5 and P6 5.11 We combined these into one pitch. The "Gentlemen's Flake" was kinda tough, maybe the second hardest pitch on the route. Flared/dirty finger locks go into a long under-cling . (#4, #3, #2 cams) Very physical. Feet are kinda dirty in the under-cling section making it feel insecure. Skip the hanging belay and do easy 5.10 climbing to the summit. Very cool summit belay sitting on the diving board with tourists milling around.

 

Most of these pictures were from other places online but I did shoot one picture that day.

-Nate Tack

 

 

 

 

Prow Wall is left side of gully.

 

 

Chris leading up the Gentlemen's Flake. Summit top-out is up through that wide gap by the diving board. (Few moves of easy chimney climbing)

 

Gear Notes:

Double set of cams to # 3 with 1x #4. Triple up on the finger size pieces. Bring a few micro nuts or tiny cams for the start of the 5.12 pitch.

 

Approach Notes:

Climb any route on the Apron and walk through the forest. Take trail down and left into gully as if you were going to Ultimate Everything. Continue up gully through fixed lines, moss and a lot of lose rock. Right with the gully pinches down and gets really bushy you'll see P1 on your left.

Edited July 24, 2014 by eldiente

[matt_warfield]

Thanks for the TR and beta on one of the Prow dest walls in a very proud area.