[TR] Prusik Peak - Solid Gold 7/6/2014

[tbrugh]

Trip: Prusik Peak - Solid Gold

 

Date: 7/6/2014

 

Trip Report:

After a solid day of cragging at Index last Saturday, we headed east to chase the good weather. We camped at the dirtbag site, and made a relatively leisurely sunrise start.

 

0500 depart Snow Lakes TH

1000 start first pitch

1600 top-out on west ridge

2130 back at car

2150 1-lb bratwursts at RudLoof’s in Ltown

2400 back in Seattle

0800 work.

 

 

P1: Sustained, amazing .10a crack/chimney leads into .10d perfect corner “Solid Gold” pitch. Endurance required.

 

P2: Challenging but adequately protected .11a move turning roof, leads into perfect hand crack

 

P3: Continue perfect hand crack .10a

 

P4: Lowest quality pitch of route, which would likely be a well-traveled route at any crag—speaks to high quality climbing on route. 5.8ish, a little loose

 

P5: Incredible tips crack in dihedral. Mixture of stemming, edging, and laybacks before stepping right into fun easy cracks to top

 

P3/P4 could be linked with 70m, as others have mentioned, we had a 60.

 

Any of these pitches would be a classic route at the crags, and linking them together…is also classic. P1 felt sustained and challenging because of the sustained nature of the pitch, but P5 felt like the technical crux in my opinion and Mike led like a champ. Route is highly recommended, and a little more traffic would never hurt clean up some of the grit (of which there isn't much). Great route, highly recommended.

 

Gear Notes:

Double rack .3 to #2, 1x#3. Seemed comfortable, could have gotten away with less but we were happy to have more.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow Lake approach snow free. Mosquitoes moderately bad. Several ticks flicked during climb.

 

[DrApnea]

Looks like it was a good one!