DrApnea

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge Date: 7/3/2016 Trip Report: Jonathan and I set out to do the Backbone Ridge on Dragontail Peak with the Fin Direct on a car-to-car single push since neither of us had permits for camping in the Enchantments. From what information we gathered, it would take us 4+ hours to reach the base of the climb, and somewhere between 16-24 hours total. I snuck into my girls' bedroom after they were asleep to kiss them goodbye, and steal a toy from each before taking off to Leavenworth. This way they could see all the fun their toys have while they are asleep. So at 11:30pm I met Jonathan in Leavenworth and we were on the road by midnight. Ideally this would place us at the base of the route at dawn. The approach went faster than anticipated and we ended up sitting around on the morane of the Colchuck Glacier awaiting dawn. When the morning light finally shone on the north face of Dragontail Peak it revealed the route to us. It was now 4:30am. We traversed the glacier and cruised up the approach pitches. Eight hours of climbing later, including lots of simul-climbing on the 5.6-5.8 sections, we topped out and saw a few hikers on the summit. These were the first people we had seen since leaving Leavenworth. We enjoyed the summit and took some pictures before starting the trek back down Asgard Pass to the lake. By the time we reached Lake Colchuck, it was blazing hot so we both jumped into the glacial fed turquoise blue frigid waters before hiking the last 5 miles to the car. Car-to-Car took us 17hrs including quite a few leisurely breaks (glacier, summit, swim, etc). Route was in great shape. Not required to walk through snow at all during the climbing. There was a backpack and crampons down low, pretty much after the approach pitch. It was located right next to an obvious bivy site. We were not sure if this was from last night or from the party that got rescued a few weeks back so we left it. A lot more pictures including photospheres (awesome) and full resolution ones are listed below. Oh ya, and here are some pictures of "Giraffey" and "Jessie" tagging along for the adventure... More pictures & photospheres Blog with TR Gear Notes: Nuts, double cams blue metolius to BD#2. A single #3 and a single #6. This was a perfect rack for us. We did need anything else and used everything we brought multiple times (except the #6 only was used on the offwidth pitch). The double rack was also helpful for simul climbing 200m in a single block. Approach Notes: Crampons not required. Brought an ax and enjoyed the security when traversing to the start of the route. Asgard is almost all snow free below the top hundred feet.

dibs

Thanks for posting. I was about to post asking for conditions on Stuart and Dragontail. You answered both. Now just to find a partner. Anyone interested PM me. Cheers.

You are correct in that I use a toothed device. I use a toothed (traxion) and a non toothed device (quicklink). A sheath that gets cut and slides along the rope (although unlikely) will not benefit from another toothed device. This is why many people advocate using a non-toothed device if you use 2 devices. My link setup is the backup that would catch even if the sheath was damaged by the tooth device during a fall. Thus as long as the core is not cut through, one of the 2 would catch my fall. I was not saying that it is an issue to use toothed devices for solo TR. This is what my setup relies on primarily. I was merely saying that some people advocate using a non-toothed device for the reasons listed above. So if you want a backup, the link/sling is a compact, <$10 option. As for the Tibloc. That is garbage and I wouldn't trust it to catch a fall ever. And for reference I've solo'd with a handful of setups, including everything from a guide mode ATC clipped in like you are the anchor, to gri-gri, clove hitch, micro-traxion, silent partner, soloist, solo-aid, and an auto-belay. IMO the silent partner wins hands down for lead, and the micro/link for TR.

For TR I like using a microtraxion and a simple quick link barely large enough for the rope to fit it. The link gets screwed closed on a girth hitched sling to the harness so that it has the sling and rope inside it. The link moves freely up the rope, no resistance. Tie a knot at any rest and the link cannot slide back down past the knot in a fall, thus providing your backup. Learn to tie a simple knot one handed and it takes about as much time as pulling a draw and clipping it. This is compact, avoids the cost of a second toothed device, and provides a non-toothed device for people that are worried about tearing the sheath and having both devices fail (ie in a double traxion setup). Downside is dealing with the knots on rap, but you have your backup device for cheap and learn to tie/untie quickly after a few laps. Silent partner for solo-lead. Any good TR spots you would recommend in Leavenworth?

Bump. Price drop on the stove. $60

Bivy sold. Stove still available. Thanks

Two things for sale located in Wenatchee, WA 98801. Optimus Nova white gas stove: Multifuel stove (white gas, kerosene, diesel and jet fuel). I think I paid $150 plus whatever the fuel bottle was. Comes with everything in the pictures except the red MSR bottle. (case, stove, tool, extra parts kit, wind screen). it is a few years old but still boils water fast even in the cold at altitude. I don't need it so its gotta go. It is an older version of this one amazon.com/Optimus-of-Sweden-N... $65 - Local pickup preferred Wenatchee/Leavenworth area. Don't want to ship fuel cans) REI Minimalist Bivy Sack - I don't remember the specs on this but basically waterproof, bathtub floor, taped seams, 1lb bivy with mesh face cover, and 3 sets of zippers so you can open up holes for your head/arms when trying to cook while still in the bag. Great shape. I just don't bivy as much as I used to. $35 Let me know if you have questions.

Anyone want to climb today (tuesday 10/14/14). I'd be driving out of Wenatchee so Leavenworth or Vantage area would be an option. I don't have enough climbing partners yet in the area, and already texted the few climbers I know. Looking to climb trad classics 5.10a and under or sport to mid 10s. I've got rack, rope, truck. Just not looking to break out the silent partner. Text info and I'll reply ASAP. I've got the whole day off and weather looks good. -Stephen

I emailed some of you already. Still looking for partners. I have the rest of the week off and if it stops raining would like to get out. Anyone up for vantage/leavenworth this week? Montypiton. I'll send you my info. I thought I had but don't remember so here it is again.

I was hoping there was a place local to buy webbing/cord from for random projects, rather than order online or have to drive 30 minutes each way to LMS (as much as I like them).

6 year bump. I was trying to find out if any stores in town sell climbing gear, webbing, cord, etc. Doesn't look like Mountain Air Gear still exists unless it has moved locations. I drove by on my way home the other day and all that was there was an RC hobby store. Suggestions for any place in Wenatchee to pick up cord? Or is the nearest place Leavenworth?

Looks like it was a good one!

TFPU Nice TR!

I just moved here too so the area is new but climbing is not. I'd be down to climb once this weather cools off a bit. 109F is too hot for me. Lets talk.

I just moved to Wenatchee from SLC. Weather is looking a bit hot for me right now (106 this weekend!), but I'm looking for some new climbing partners. I don't know anyone in town yet. I like multi-pitch trad in the 5.9-5.10 range the most, but will follow up to about 11 with a bit of struggling, can lead sport to 11a, and am happy to cruise on easier stuff as well. I ice climb a little and have done a couple aid walls as well. I have a vehicle, am reliable, have more than enough gear, climb safe, and have most weekends off. I'm also on MP, ST, and bigwalls as DrApnea but thought CC would be a good place to start looking for local climbers for the vantage/leavenworth area. Let me know if you have room for an extra person! -Stephen

sorry actually we are lower risk: "Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed."

Read this article that basically says we are just as safe as any mainstream sport. Insurance companies don't care though. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20632737

thanks for posting up. I'll keep you in mind on our next trip up there if we aren't dirt bagging it

Going to have to check some of these out with my 2 year old. Thanks

I love that first picture of Fred. Its a "WTF are you looking at, even I can send that line" type of pose.

Strong work guys. Thanks for posting

Sounds like a "need to replace them before the wife notices what I lost" Just kidding. I've got a pair but like them too much to part. Good luck.

sent ya a PM

I figured as much but it does seem like the quickest access. Just didn't know if I was missing anything closer than frenchmans, icicle creek or Tumwater