[TR] Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse Variation 7/8/2014

[aikidjoe]

Trip: Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse Variation

 

Date: 7/8/2014

 

Trip Report:

climbwa picked me up from work early on Tuesday to head up to Guye Peak to climb the Improbable Traverse. After sweating our way up the boulder field (it was HOT), we roped up and simuled the first 3 pitches. I led this block, and of course, steered us to the wrong direction. What followed was something of an adventure, where climbwa pulled through with a couple great leads into the relative unknown.

 

We ended the simul block at the base of a corner a bit right of the standard route. climbwa took over the leading here, and we pitched out the rest of the climb to the 3rd class bit at the top. This first pitch was a short one to what we thought was the Lunch Ledge, but in fact was just some ledge to the right of it, situated below the middle of the smaller roof. After poking around, we decided to head up the corner to the right of the roof, and meet the standard route at the top. climbwa did an excellent job on the lead, which involved a few slightly overhanging moves.

 

From the Selected Climbs book, this was neither the standard route nor the Direct Variation (which is to the left of the small roof). I've sketched in approximately where we went in the photo below. The blue line is where I think we went off the standard route and in the variation. I'm wondering if anyone else has done this variation and if they know the grade? It was clear from the moss and dirt and loose blocks it hasn't been climbed often, but I really doubt we're the first ones to climb it. We think it was at least 5.9, but neither of us feels experienced enough to judge for certain; it could have just felt harder to us than it actually is.

 

top

 

It took us about 5 hours to get to the top, and by then it was getting dark and we were rather dehydrated (did not bring enough water for how hot it was...). We had a little confusion finding the descent trail, but happily found it before complete darkness and were able to follow the trail by headlamp back to the road. 7.5 hours car to car.

 

Overall a fun after-work adventure.

 

Some photos (sorry for the rotation of some of them):

Me starting up the simul climbing pitches.

 

climbwa leading the variation. I didn't get any photos of him in the crux unfortunately.

 

Approaching the summit at sunset.

 

climbwa at the top.

 

Me at the top.

 

Great view of Rainier from the top.

 

Gear Notes:

Full set of cams 0.1-3, with doubles from 0.5-2 I think, and a set of nuts. I think we ended up using all the cams.

 

Approach Notes:

Parked below the residential road.

Edited July 10, 2014 by aikidjoe