quikclimber Posted April 17, 2014 Posted April 17, 2014 Trip: Colchuck Pk - North Buttress Date: 4/14/2014 Trip Report: With a sunny forecast and partner lined out, I had to get back into the Stuart range. The North Buttress Couloir had been on my list for a while and seemed like a perfect fit for a shakedown climb with a new partner. We made a casual afternoon start from the gate, stashed the beers in the river and started the march up the road. Minutes later we both swore to bring a bike next time, even if only for the awesome ride on the way back down. We hit snow just after the road levels out. Once we found the snow wasn't too soft we ditched the slowshoes in the bushes and made quick time to the Colchuck turn off. We took the direct route up to the middle of the lake, cutting out all the switchbacks on the way up. We headed out around 6 Sunday morning. The snow was perfect booter to the couloir. In the couloir conditions changed a few times from knee deep to crampon points only. We opted to rope up at the top of the couloir since the snow on the NW face was a bit icier and there was a little more exposure. The route was easy to follow and still had plenty of snow. Clear, sunny views from the summit were some of the best I have seen. The snow on the descent to the glacier was soft and offered awesome glissading. We glissaded the glacier all the way to the lake. Some icy sections made for some of the fastest sitting and three point glissades I've done. The beer was still in the river when we got back to the car, which helped us to forget the slog out. Ready to head back! dragontail and colchuck from the lake colchuck dragontail sunset looking up from the bottom of the NBC beginning of the couloir on the NW face very top of the NW face looking down the NE couloir just below the summit Sherpa, Argonaut, Stuart, Rainier Stuart Glissading the glacier NBC Camp Gear Notes: a few nuts and pickets for protection while simul-climbing. pons and axe. Approach Notes: boots...or a four wheeler Quote
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