[TR] Chair peak - Northeast Face 1/26/2014

[Techdiver]

Trip: Chair peak - Northeast Face

 

Date: 1/26/2014

 

Trip Report:

Just putting it out there for people not sure about current conditions. We have climbed this Northeast route last week and also today.

 

We have started 6am and came back 3pm 2 people last week. Today we have climbed in team of three and had the same time. So if you start early you'll be home before sunset

 

There's still plenty of ice to have fun on but won't last long so go get some!

 

 

 

 

Approach: No flotation needed. The snow is firm enough and easy going. Just make sure you start early.

 

Gear: No pickets or pins needed. I could actually place one 19cm screw today but don't count on it. Small rock gear used as well.

 

Ps: I have accidentally dropped 16cm BD Express(blue) screw in like new condition on the route so if by some miracle someone find it I would love to have it back in exchange for beer of course. Thanks

Edited January 27, 2014 by Techdiver

[bellows]

Nice work! I was in the party of two below you on the North Face proper yesterday. I like your pics, we were curious what your line looked like.

 

Notes of the NF (with apologies to OP for the thread drift)

- the bergschrund is wide open, we pitched out a crusty snow traverse above it to get to the normal starting belay

- the hard rain crust made the approach and hike out pretty cruiser with crampons

- we brought 4 pickets and 6 shorter screws and used it all, two pickets were used for the belay on top of the first ice step and two more were nice to have for the runout pitch to the trees

- it was my second time on the route (last time 2 years ago) and I thought there was much more ice this time around

 

And sorry about your lost screw. With the hard snow conditions I'm guessing it slid quite far! On the traverse under your line it almost felt like if we slipped we'd end up all the way down at Snow Lake.

Edited January 27, 2014 by bellows

[Techdiver]

It looked like you guys where enjoying the climb. I felt better once I saw you guys where pursuing different line and where not directly bellow us receiving all that snow and ice shower we where sending down.

The route we where sending had plenty of ice patches for pro and each belay was tree except the last stretch to summit.

 

-I may also add that one 60m line is sufficient for rappel in case you can't get your hans on double ropes and don't fell like dragging the extra weight .

Edited January 28, 2014 by Techdiver