N Dahlstrom Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Trip: Forbidden Peak - West Ridge Date: 8/5/2013 Trip Report: On August 4-6 My friend Zach and I climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. We got our permits and hit the trail at about 1:30 or so. It was really hot and we were swarmed by these tiny little flies. The flies were good motivation to get moving. Zach geared up and ready for some extreme alpine action It doesn't take long to get your first view of the route. There it is I didn't have a map, just a GPS, but luckily there was this map near the trailhead that would actually prove quite useful in finding the upper bivy area. Notice the coordinates for the toilets. They are pretty accurate. Hiking photos: Sound of Music anyone? Zach contemplating how fun the NE Buttress of J-burg looks. Next year? A good basecamp outfit is crucial to the success of any expedition. The mosquitos were pretty bad, but there was a breeze that picked up and helped. Evening views from Boston Basin: The morning was nice and cold. The snow was super crunchy and perfect for cramponing efficiently. Zach looking up at the route. I chose the alpinstick approach with a toy axe on my pack that I used for the last steep bit of the glacier. Ya, I know I look like an old man in this photo. Making our way through the rock bands below the glacier proper. Walkin up snow Zach: navigating the glacier. Me: busy taking a selfie. We went around to the left of the little rock island that is just below the route. There was a bergschrund that we climbed into and back out. Definitely some intense mixed moves involved. Climbin' in. Gearing up for the climb We took the loose gully climber's left of the main rib just left of the couloir. It was not too fun, but we swapped a couple simul-leads and made it up. First belay off the glacier Here is the beginning of the West ridge route. Somewhere midroute. We simulclimbed almost the whole route I believe. Just rope drag and running out of slings caused us to set belays. On top. Woot! Crazyawesome views. Back at the col. No sunscreen again? Zach gets a little tore up on the descent back to camp. We slept very well that night back at our camp and got up the next morning for the quick hike out. Morning camp. Hoods for bug and sun protection. Overall a great climb and fun to take three days to just enjoy that beautiful area. I hope to climb around there more in the future. Gear Notes: small rack, crampons, lightweight mountaineering boots (next time I might go for approach shoes with universal crampons so climbing is a little easier but either way works), 60m half rope doubled for climbing lightweight axe, alpinstick, Approach Notes: 3 hours to upper bivy sites. stream crossings no big deal. bugs, big deal. heat, hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 That was a really great TR, love it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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