Matt_Anderson Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 The weather at Squamish looks shitty, so my partner and I are thinking about Beacon Rock. We've never been there and all I've got is Washington Rock. How much does Washington Rock miss? Should we check out a different guide and if so, which one? I heard about this really steep section (past vertical?) with a few cracks, but don't really see that in the guide. Does it exist? Are there any areas that are still closed for falcons? Has the face that WR talks about that was closed, but may open sometime, (the Northeast face, I think?) opened for climbing. If so what to check out? Where's the best camping? Any recomendations that aren't in the book? We're mainly hoping for .11's and low .12's. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Beacon has some great routes. Unfortunately Smoot's guide does leave out a bunch of them. You might try the library for Olsen's guide to Portland Rock Climbs. I think it's available in local shops (seattle)as well. Haven't climbed the newer routes but Blown Out/Second Wind is/was a great route. There really is a steep section of rock. And the rock is 1000 times better than the columns of Yakima and Vantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 I would suggest picking up a copy of Tim Olson's new book "Portland Rock Climbs" put out this past spring. Quite a few new things since Smoot's book was published Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: How much does Washington Rock miss? Should we check out a different guide and if so, which one? Not much, check out Tim Olson's Portland Area Rock Climbs (available at Portland Rock Gym, Oregon Mt Comm., The Mountain Shop, and probably any other gear shop in PDX) I heard about this really steep section (past vertical?) with a few cracks, but don't really see that in the guide. Does it exist? Couple of areas like that. The east face is big, overhanging, and has lots of potential, unfortunately it's off-limits...illegal and enforced. Another is the "Arena of Terror" at the west end of the south face adjacent to the route Pipeline. It's roofy with potential for some hard (and I mean really hard) free lines, if you're game have at it. Are there any areas that are still closed for falcons? No. Falcon closures ended 7/15 Has the face that WR talks about that was closed, but may open sometime, (the Northeast face, I think?) opened for climbing. See my note above. Where's the best camping? You can camp at the state park across the street from the rock itself. There's also plenty of forest service land and camping on the Oregon side, check out a camping or Hiking oregon guide, call the local USFS Ranger district, or get a 7.5 topo. Any recomendations that aren't in the book? We're mainly hoping for .11's and low .12's. well that depends on whether you mean a bolt every six feet 11's and 12's, or trad 11's and 12's. There aren't alot of entirely bolted lines there, and those don't look too good, squeeze jobs and such. If you want to check out what the climbing there is really about, do one of the pure stemming lines like Seagull or Tennessee Walker (aka Ten-a-Cee Stem) that check in at mid .10 trad. Steppenwolf was recently cleaned (a few weeks ago) and should be a good time in the .11 trad range. Dod's Jam to Dastardly is a fun outing with four varied pitches, crux being .10c thin hands. For sport stuff you'd probably be better off at Carver or Broughton. I may be in town this weekend drop me an e-mail if you want and I'll send you my phone # -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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