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I just got back from my first visit a few days ago. There is a big schrund part way up the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col. The schrund could grow big enough to make access much more difficult. I believe that approaching via this col is necessary for all of teh Howser Towers, Pigeon Spire, and the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, to name a few. Others said the col is currently very melted out but since this was my first visit, I don't have a basis for comparison.

 

My understanding is that the window for good weather is pretty narrow in the Bugs. People have told me that it can start snowing in September.

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