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PellucidWombat

Partner Needed for N Ridge of Stuart

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Hey CCers,

 

I'm flying in from CA for a long weekend to do some PNW climbs, and unfortunately my partner had to back out on doing the N Ridge of Stuart (Direct Start) due to some back issues.

 

I want to attempt this car-to-car from the north, and my flight reservation (and backup reservation) have me limited to doing this on either the weekend of September 7 or September 14.

 

Basically, the days I could do the climb on (allowing for going into the next day from a long outing or 'unplanned' bivy):

 

Saturday, September 7 (Most preferred)

Sunday, September 8 (will be more tired to start, though)

Monday, September 9 (Preferred)

 

or, using my weather backup flight (less preferred, unless weather cancels the above dates):

 

Saturday, September 14

Sunday, September 15 (will be more tired to start, though)

Monday, September 16

 

Ideally I'd wan't to do a warmup climb with any partner, which I could do the day before any of the dates listed above - Outer Space seems ideal as it is high on my list, and in the area, so that can be climbed and allow enough rest for a very early start on Saturday.

 

I'm fine leading all pitches (although sharing is nicer), but I would want a partner who is OK with a lot of simul-climbing and is proficient at following 5.9 trad at a minimum, and physically fit for a long outing!

 

As for me, my longest continuous push was 39 hrs, I have done a few +10,000 ft gain days and one over 40 miles, I'm solid at 5.9 alpine trad and some 5.10, and for trad this summer I've done the SW Face of Conness in the Sierra (IV-V, 5.10c, leading the 5.10 OW), Beckey-Chouinard on S Howser Tower (leading all the wide, taking the original wide variation), and the NWRR of Half Dome in 1.5 days (following/freeing up to 5.9+ with the overnight pack on). I've done a number of carryovers in the Tetons & Sierra so feel good about climbing with a heavy pack, although I'd want to keep things light for this!

 

A couple of reports of some recent/relevant climbs:

 

Tour de PALISADES Norman Clyde Firebird Ridge (IV, 5.9) - Norman Clyde Twilight Pillar (III, 5.9) - Palisade Crest N to S (IV, 5.8)

 

Teton Grand Slam

 

Or, if no one is interested in Stuart, how about NE Butt of Slesse?

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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oh, and just to clarify, with a northern approach, I am assuming a descent of the West Ridge as I know the Sherpa Glacier is too melted out by this point to be a good descent route. W Ridge looks like a pain compared to Cascade Couloir, but more fitting with my preferences than the cons of the southern approach, although I'm happy to hear suggestions!

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It's an amazing climb, if you only have time to do one, I'd do the NR of stuart before Slesse. I'd also recommend doing the complete north ridge, rather than skipping the first half. It's a super big day to go car to car, and there is a lot less light that time of year. If you go from the north, the decent is a lot more rugged. I'd suggest that an easier onsite would be to come in from the teanaway road past lake stuart, and then descend the cascadian couloir and hike back over the ridge to the car.

 

Good luck!

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I'm definitely gunning for the Direct Start (complete NR) and climbing the gendarme! Looks like a long, fun outing with some nice variety.

Edited by PellucidWombat

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