[TR] Leavenworth - Midway 8/18/2004

[matt_warfield]

Trip: Leavenworth - Midway

 

Date: 8/18/2004

 

Trip Report:

This is another part of my mental diary, to be disbursed on a whim for those who prefer crags to snow and ice.

 

We were a party of four: me and three of the either timid or inexperienced category (meaning one leader, no two rope teams, just a snails pace on a wonderful summer day with crowded belays). We were dismayed that the route was so popular, but joined the queue nonetheless. The trip was adubbed the "nickname" trip.

 

P1: Party ahead was a newbie teenage girl climbing with her father. I got antsy and started up quickly after. My party was out of sight at the base and her father (doing the Direct verson) was also out of sight and struggling with his lead which took time. The little lady needed some comforting and I was glad to comply. Her nickname was "Makeout Girl".

 

P2: After leading, I got some hollering from below from my then wife about how hard it was to take out a fixed piton. I tried to explain over 50' and the roar of the Tumwater what "fixed" means and finally got through. Her nickname was "Cragging Newbie". She arrived as did the others and also the next group's leader soon after. Since I had command of the prime belay cracks, he decided to belay off one cam with only one lobe engaged. We called him "Half Cam Wit". Nothing is worse than experiencing a disaster in the making so off I went.

 

P3: Nothing notable except topout when "Cragging Newbie" turned into "Posing Newbie". Not my pic but check the Forum for Midway and "dtw" for one of "Cragging Newbie"

 

Then off to the Tumwater where we jumped/dove off the rock on the other side, then up Icicle for a few sport pitches, and finally a few beers were had.

 

Except that there was a car lockout situation that required dumpster diving in through the moonroof.

 

All in all a good day.

Edited February 16, 2013 by matt_warfield