Fit on Mountaineering Boot?

[Newman55]

Looking for my first mountaineering boot to get me up and down Rainier and other PNW volcanoes / also might dabble in a little ice climbing.

 

I've tried on a few pairs but so far really like the Scarpa Mont Blancs. Just looking for a little advice on fit. I don't have any experience with mountaineering boots - I've done all climbing up to this point in Scarpa M3s. Do I want a mountaineering boot to fit tight around a thick sock or should I be looking for a little wiggle room in the toe-box?

 

Which shop in Seattle is going to give me the best advice on fit? So far I've been pretty confident in the advice received at Feathered Friends.

 

Thanks

 

 

[jakedouglas]

I bought my boots at FF but got similar advice elsewhere:

 

There should be zero or minimal (1/4 inch or less) heel lift when walking (walk up and down the test "slopes" in the store). Heel lift is most apparent for me when climbing dirt trails on approach.

 

Toes should not impact the front of the boot when kicking. Don't want to mash your toes when kicking steps into snow or ice. Just kick your toes into the floor to test this. Make sure the ankle area is laced tight to keep your foot from sliding forward. My foot also tends to slide forward into the front of the boot when descending dirt trails, which is not fun.

 

The general fit should be pretty snug to keep your foot locked in, but not to the point of reducing circulation at all. If you sat still in them for an hour, your feet shouldn't fall asleep or get pins and needles or anything. I prefer being able to wiggle my toes a bit.