[TR] Squamish BC - Deidre/Skywalker/Buttress/SlotMchn/Klahanie 11/20/2012

[smithxrandy]

Trip: Squamish BC - Deidre/Skywalker/Buttress/SlotMchn/Klahanie

 

Date: 11/20/2012

 

Trip Report:

As my second trip over I was very excited knowing the opportunities to be had. When my friend invited a new guy out, I decided Id climb with a friend that lives there. As we got into squamish for 3pm we hopped onto Deidre to warm us up. Great bolted stations in between superb quick and solid climbing. Highlight was the 2nd to last pitch where the pin scars space out and it becomes more than a routine on the same feature for 4 pitches.. haha. Even the unprotected slab traverse was easy going.

 

Being a newer leader climbing with a new guy, our 2nd rope team really threw a wrench into things. By the time I had topped out, rapped down a pitch to deliver a fixed line and reclimbed the last pitch in runnners, it was 8pm.

Bit of a sketchy hike down for the newer guys, ended up having to short rope on a hip belay around some trees.. ended up perfectly safe, although again someone should have warned me, its more like a 4th class scramble down.

 

After arriving at the parking lot, I spotted a familiar vehicle. My usual partner had shown up.. from the Island haha. In any case, I was annoyed and wanted to climb, and he was psyched as always. Coffee and then Skywalker!

 

The bolts on the first pitch were kind of tricky to spot in the dark with a dying headlamp, but from there on was smooth. The Flume seemed harder than it should have for 5.8 , but really cool none the less. Swapped leads and zipped up the rest of the pitches with confidence. As we looked out periodically we could see the northern lights, that sure was neat.

Got a little confused on the rap route, as we ended up having to prussik the line and pendulum around to find the bolts.

 

Ok good warm up, now for Klahanie and the two cracks 5m off to the right. Klahanie was amazing, secure jams all the way with perfect pro. Great for a new leader.

 

I was feeling tired and didnt climb the other two, but my partner said they were kind of worth climbing and both went at about 5.8 . Exactly 30m to the rings.

 

The next day we were tired and got a late start but as the last day of my trip I didnt want to skimp. We decided we would push my partners leading skills on Birds Of Prey (6p up to 5.10b)

The first two pitches were some moderate to steep slab finger splitters, awesome climbing. Could have been linked if you were to solo the first little bit up past the 4th class, or simul climb a bit. Third pitch rocked as the position is very nice,and who doesnt like a 10b finger corner! Interesting traverse move out left, mindful of your second when protecting that. Great chimney and offwidth practice on the last pitch. All in all, it was a great climb and would recommend it for sure.

Some of the feet were really polished, so be up on your jamming and stemming skills.

 

Debating on Rock On to finish the trip, we decided that would be best left for light time hours as weve heard the position is what makes it so darn neat. We headed over to Slot Machine and climbed the first pitch as we were tired and lazy. Great jamming, again another good one for new leaders.

 

So ended my second trip to Squamish.

 

 

Gear Notes:

SR.

 

Approach Notes:

Slhanay/Squaw We got really lost, stay far right of the boulder field. Somehow we ended up in the middle and at times to the left of it. Trail gets kind of steep, bring water in the warmer months!

Edited November 21, 2012 by smithxrandy

[matt_warfield]

Squamish is a special place.

 

As you escalate, the Split Pillar should be considered. You will not be disappointed.