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Posted

Has anybody climbed in this area? I have the route description compiled by Clint Cummins, various Alpine Journal entries, and or course, the story by Dave Roberts about their 1st ascent of Shot Tower. However, if anyone has any first hand experience in the area, I'd certainly appreciate your input. My plans are to head up in the spring/summer of 2003.

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Posted

I have several friends who've been there. There's plenty of new line potential. The good rock is there if you look for it but there is also a fair deal of loose rock as well. The flights to get you there are not cheap, and still leave you with a long walk in and out. Based on their slides they showed me,it looks well worth it, a real adventure. I wish I could remember more, but both groups didn't get a lot of climbing in due to weather and the approach/exit eating up their time. One group did cover a lot of ground though and got a few ideas for a return trip. Two things that would be good to have- this coming from hardcore Alaskans: Bug dope and a .44

Posted

I spent some time in the AK bush in the 1980s: a headnet is nice for bugs in the lowlands and if you are serious about bear protection, forget the .44. You'll just piss off the browns, and you have to be a good shot to deal with the blacks. Either forget the gun or get something with stopping power - a shotgun (plug removed)with slugs and buckshot is minimum. 30.06 or bigger is preferred. There is a USFS publication from the 1980s that summarizes a study on the stopping power of firearms for bear protection - very illuminating.

Besides the bear spray option (debatable effectiveness - don't spray into the wind!), there is a little "pen" with a spring-loaded firing pin that shoots flares or an explosive cartridge that we used to use to scare bears we'd encounter on traverses. I think you can probably get them from one of the geologic supply stores like Miners in Spokane. They don't always work, but are a nice, light option.

The important thing is to keep a clean camp - burn your garbage to keep the food attraction at a minimum, etc.

Should be a great trip - have fun!

Posted

Just my $.02 on the bear issue. My bro is in the Air Force and was in Fairbanks for 3 years. He didn't spend a ton of time in the back country, but he got out a fair bit. Never carried a gun. Never had a problem w/ bears. Everybody up there thought he was insane for heading out w/out a firearm, but he's still alive and breathing. He seemed to think there's a bit too much of the Wild West, cowboy mentality up there, just shoot the hell out of anything that moves.

I agree, keeping a clean camp is far better prevention of a bad bear encounter. Also, if you are packin' heat, you better be damn sure it has enough power to do the job and you're good enough aim to hit the target. Otherwise the gun is a waste of time and just extra weight.

Posted

my boy has something to say (he's from alaska)-

"you are full of shit. last year we had a bunch of people looking at birds from california and they came by the store that i work at and i told them they should take a gun with them and they said they did not need one. two of those cali bastards never came back....." hey man it's your choice but if it were me.... 50 caliber all the way......

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