mikestuckey Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 (edited) Trip: Mount Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 7/27/2012 Trip Report: Camped at the rocks at 6,200 feet. Started climbing at 3:30 a.m. on Saturday, July 28. Excellent weather and snow conditions. No sign of crevasses anywhere near the route until the bergschrund just below the summit pyramid and that was easily flanked to the east (climber's right). A bit of mixed rock and very icy snow got us to the gully, melted out and dry. Classic Class 3 with slight rockfall danger. Trended left and exited at final rap station about 100 feet below summit. That put us on a slabby final ridge that was virtually a trail to the top. Windless and brilliantly sunny there. About 4.5 hours from camp to top at leisurely pace, final hour in the gully. About 30 to 45 mins back to the glacier and 2:15 back to camp. Great day. Take your rope to the summit if you have party members who are nervous about down-climbing as rap stations are numerous and easy to access. Gear Notes: Axes, crampons, helmets, 30m rope and pickets. Approach Notes: Trail on Shannon Ridge from about 3,800 feet to the first views of Baker at 4,500 is pretty messy with lots of downed trees and fair amount of snow still. After that, very pleasant hiking on snow and a bit of rock over the notch and around the cirque to camp. Permits to camp in the Sulphide Zone are limited to six parties a night and I have been checked by rangers two of the three times I have been there. Obtain permits and blue bags at Sedro-Woolley ranger station. Forest Roads 1152 and 014 to trailhead are in excellent shape. Nice new toilet and garbage cans and plenty of parking at TH. Northwest Forest Pass required. Edited August 10, 2012 by mikestuckey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.