[TR] Ingalls Peak - East Ridge 6/17/2012

[selkirk]

Trip: Ingalls Peak - East Ridge

 

Date: 6/17/2012

 

Trip Report:

Route Overview

 

6:15am Leave Beverly Creek Trailhead

8:00am Ingalls Pass

9:00am Gully Below East Ridge access point

10:00am Roping up at the East Ridge Notch

4:00pm Full group on Summit

5:40pm Base of the S. Ridge

7:30pm Return to Beverly Creek Trailhead

 

A few of bivied at the trailhead overnight at the trailhead and at about 1:00 Kititas SAR rolled in. In the morning we found out that there had been two accidents on Saturday, a broken arm on Stuart, and a broken hip on Ingalls. The lady with the broken arm required assistance crossing Ingalls creek, and ascending/descending longs pass and SAR had dispatched two people to set up a roped creek crossing. The man with the broken hip was up nears Ingalls peak, and the intent was to perform a helicopter rescue that morning. There was also another group of Kitsap Mountaineers who were planning on the Basic Route on Ingalls peak getting their folks lined up. We chatted at the parking lot but after leaving the parking lot didn't see them again. Overnight we had intermittent showers, but we woke up to a moderately high cloud ceiling.

 

After sorting a little gear, we talked about the climb a bit and left the trailhead at 6:15am. The first mile or so was on trail, and after that we followed the boot path up to the Longs Pass / Ingalls Pass juncture where we met the SAR party. They were carrying sleds and evacuation gear into Ingalls Lake just in case the helicopter rescue wasn't feasible. We chatted for a few moments, thanked them for their work and carried on. We hit Ingalls pass at about 9:00 and the cloud layer was high enough that we could see Ingalls Peak and the boot path leading to the East Ridge, as well as the lower half of Stuart. After Ingalls pass we dropped down a bit and contoured around the valley trying to cut a rising traverse to the gulley below the East Ridge Notch about 10:00. There was some evidence of old wet-slide avalanche debris, but the snow pack was firm and well consolidated. No need for either snowshoes or crampons. We dropped a little gear and then headed up the climb.

 

 

Route:

P1: The typical first pitch was snowed under so we ascended steep snow until we could access the 4th class ledges on the left side of the gulley. Once on the ledges we threw on our rock shoes and climbed up to a small rib just this side of the notch. Heading through the Notch would have put us back on snow so we elected to start belaying just short of the notch and headed up a 5.5ish rib to access the ridgeline and then followed just to climber’s right of the ridgeline. We continued on until rope drag became an issue just below the large gendarme, prior to dropping into the notch.

 

 

 

P2: Second pitch descended into the notch. As the first climber I dropped to climbers left of a small fin descending low 5th terrain to the notch low point. Getting out of that involved a strenuous 5.8ish layback/high step to get back to the ridgeline. I advised all of the other teams to descend the right side of the fin. This required a more technical down climbing move but involved less overall unprotected down climbing for the 2nd, and did not require the layback move to get back on the ridge. After that the pitch crossed a small snow patch and then extended until rope drag became onerous.

 

P3: Started up a low to mid 5th headwall trending up and slightly right of the crest following good gear, to belay from the top of a small buttress.

 

P4: The 4th pitch started with a small down climbing move getting off the buttress, then going between two large boulders before continuing up staying just right of the ridgeline and crossing a 2nd snow patch. Primarily 4th class terrain with occasional pro, until rope drag became onerous. This pitch ended just below the crux wide crack.

 

P5: Traversed over to the base of the small headwall, and then up broken terrain to the middle of three parallel leftward trending cracks that all reached up to the ridgeline. The lowest crack is a large slanting off width, followed by a smaller slanting fist crack and then a thin finger crack. Protected high in the middle fist crack with a old style #4 Camalot, and then square up to the rock to climbers left, making a 5.7 move to gain handholds on the ridge crest. Follow easier terrain to the summit. The first team sumitted at about 3:00, and the last team sumitted about 4:00.

 

Weather on route was just adequate. Fog, light showers, some wind, but nothing sufficient to cause us to turn around. Once on the summit winds went from 10 to 15 mph to 30 mph with gusts to 35 or 40 mph. We also ran into a private party who had just climbed the S. Ridge. Descent was a challenge due to high winds. Best option was to use saddle bags to control the rappel lines and then tie off rappel lines to the next anchor down.

 

Descent: Descent follows the S. Ridge climbing route. From Summit traverse west through prominent notch and then follow slightly down sloping ledges bearing left to cliff edge. Rappel anchor is a cluster of 3 bolts with chains. Descent can made most efficiently with 2x double rope rappels. There are also intermediate rap stations making 4x single rope rappels possible, though the 2nd rappel drops requires about 7 ft of down climbing so watch your rope ends. Rappels drop you at the base of the S. Ridge route. Descent gully back to base of the East ridge.

 

 

As we were rapping down following the private party we were constrained by there pace so we made a series of 3 single rope rappels and 1x double. In retrospect a double rope rappel for the last stretch was unnecessary. Once on the ground we gathered up and descended the snowfield back towards our stashed gear and headed back out. The only other car in the parking lot when we arrived was the private team we had encountered on the summit.

 

All in all a good climb. The theme seemed to be just good enough not to cancel, until of course we hit the summit! Very challenging conditions for everyone’s first Intermediate Rock climb, and everyone did great. Calm cool and collected throughout, and climbed at a reasonable pace in good style.

 

 

"Pitch 1"

 

East Ridge Notch

 

Pitch 2 - Down into another notch and across the snow.

 

Pitch 3 - Up the Face

 

Just Below the Crux

 

Cold Windy Summit

 

Rapelling into the Abyss.

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear: Single rack to 3" with 1x #4 Camalot (Old style) for the group to protect the crux. 10+ slings (mix of singles/doubles) per rope team. Rope drag is the biggest issue encountered.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow, lot of it. No flotation needed though.