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Chianti Spire - East Face


cam yarder

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On July 5th, Greg Bricca and I climbed the East Face of Chianti Spire.

 

After a good round of instant espresso at the car, we began the steep grind to the flats and up to Burgundy Col. The morning was warm and sunny so dropping onto the glacier was easy, no axe or crampons needed.

 

I really like how you can’t see this route until you are directly under it: you cross under Burgundy Spire and hike up to the saddle there and BAM, there’s the line, right in your face.

 

Getting onto the route was complicated by a moat. There is still a lot of snow up there! I think we climbed the upper half or third of the standard 5.8 first pitch due to the snow level.

 

Greg and I both agreed that Rebel Yell is a spectacular route. The combination of the setting, the steep, splitter directness of the line, the exposure of the headwall and the summit boulder all make for a great climb.

 

photos:

 

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