Mount Hood Pearly Gates May12th 2012

[Pwelco]

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May.

The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line.

The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay.

Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired.

There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM.

Pics can be had at two locations

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb

 

 

 

Cheers and headin back on June 2nd

 

Some couldn't get to the links so.....

 

 

On the Traverse over to the Gates

 

 

 

Heading up through the left chute of the Pearly Gates. About a 15 foot icy section here a screw or two is nice to have along!

 

 

 

Belaying my buds up through the Gates

 

 

 

Hittin easier ground rounding out up to the summit

 

 

 

Summit photo looking East

 

 

 

 

Summit ridge that leads to the Old Chute or Mazama Route as its called. Yes there is a dog on the summit!

 

 

 

Happy Days!

 

 

 

Can you see why I opted for the Pearly Gates?? Which way would you go? Take an extra tool so you have the option to avoid the crowds but not on June 2nd please

 

Cheers,

Paul

Edited May 15, 2012 by Pwelco

[Pwelco]

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