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Trip: Koke'e State Park - Nu'alolo Canyon Trail

 

Date: 4/24/2012

 

Trip Report:

On Tuesday morning Emily and I got a semi-early start and began the drive out to the western side of Kaua’i, past Waimea Canyon, and to Koke’e state park. The road lazily meanders up to 3600 feet, taking enough hairpin turns to make even a strong-stomached person gasp. The whole drive dark clouds mustered around the sentinel peaks of the interior, threatening to wash out our plans. However, having hiked in the NW for years I know not to throw in the towel until the skies open.

 

Parking at the visitor center we walked a couple hundred yards south to the Nu’alolo TH. About ¾ mile to the north commences the Awa’awapuhi trail, each running out about four miles to stunning vistas. Our plan was to take the former, continue on to the 2.2 mile Cliff Trail that skirts along a ledge on crumbling layers of ancient volcanic expulsions that drops roughly 2000 feet into deep green caverns, and then onto the latter back to the road. Including the trek back along the road to the visitor center the entire loop comes to about 11 miles. If doing the loop it is recommended to follow the direction we did due to the difference in grade between the two trails.

 

We hit the trail at 9:30am, and after ascending a couple hundred feet, began our 1400 foot descent to the littoral precipitous canyons. The trail starts with thick forest before opening up to meadows allowing the first views over the adjacent ridgelines which look nothing more than rolling hills. The trail is wide and easy to follow, but as you approach the ridge that escorts you to the first vistas of the day the terrain rapidly steepens to down-climbing a slippery clay-like slope. This descent is made easier by the abundance of exposed roots from years of erosion caused by the trail becoming the main drainage for the route. Although not difficult it is easy to see why you would rather descend this trail than climb it after 7 miles in the humid mountain air.

 

In an hour and change we came to the end of the timberline on the ridge and began to take in 300 degree views of the canyons and coastline. The declivitous canyon walls seemed to be incapable of holding anything save deep green vegetation that seemed to be painted on in long horizontal strokes that forsook the generations of volcanic construction. The sharp drops allowed vertigo-inducing looks down to the gullet of the serrated gashes. Only along the very bottom was the grade easy enough to allow trees, which resembled a lighter green river in the otherwise emerald landscape. As a complement, reddish-orange soil frosted the tops of the ridges and was again revealed at the mouth of the river as it spilled into the aquamarine waters below. The impervious nature of this coastline lends it to popular helicopter tours, several of which slithered in and out of the canyons below us, looking like nothing more than birds.

 

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After a brief snack we continued on to the Cliff Trail which took us near some steep drops on marginal rock/dirt which may have been dicey on a rainy day. The trail weaved back into a nook of the canyons before bringing us out to the other vista point. Again the views were spectacular. Despite our concerns the weather had held, and the clouds remained high. At times a cool mist would fill the air, giving a refreshing reprieve from the warm air. This vista has a navigable ridge traverse that situates one surrounded by long drops on either side. A walk that can be airy, but is definitely worthwhile.

 

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Satisfied with the spoils of our work we began the long, 1500 foot, uphill trudge back from the canyon walls. Although the grade is easy, it seems to go on forever, only to take you to an undulating road back to your car. We had only begun to make this final leg of the loop when we were fortuitously picked up by a couple we had met the previous day. It was now about 1:30 pm. The trail is a definite highlight for any trip to the Garden Island.

 

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Gear Notes:

Plenty of water.

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