[TR] Chair Peak - North Face - Feb 12 2012

[Keithish]

Trip: Chair Peak - North Face

 

Date: Feb 12 2012

 

Trip Report: Jeremy [La Mano] and I teamed up via the CC partners forum for our first climb together.

 

Approach: From Alpental, snowshoes were handy on the latter part of the trail to Source lake and beyond.

 

Trooper Jeremy, breaking trail

 

Gear Notes: Single 70 m rope, 3 pickets, 5 screws (stubby, 2x10, 2x13), small-medium wires, pegs (2xKB, 1xLA, 2xsmall angles), and slings (5x4', 6x8', 3 screamers).

 

Route: 3 pitches with a bit of simul-climbing on P2 & P3 worked well with a single 70 m.

 

Jeremy above the steep section of P1

 

P1 - A small snow-bridge across the bergschrund at the base allowed access to an unconsolidated snow cone. After a little uphill swimming there was a section of steep and decent ice followed by steep snow. Good rock gear on RH side and OK screws. Belay on picket and a couple of screws.

 

Jeremy setting off on P2

 

P2 - Unconsolidated snow and OK ice led up and right to belay in the trees.

 

P3 - More unconsolidated snow, OK ice, good tree slings and rock gear. We turned the cornice on the RH side. After a short climb up and right we were on the summit enjoying good views through patchy cloud cover.

 

Obligatory Summit Photo

 

Descent: Head towards NE buttress, over a small rise, down and (skiers) right into a gully. Down climb to fixed gear on a head-wall (skiers left). We joined ropes with another team for the rap back to the basin below, and our stashed snowshoes. A shorter rap, or down climbing would be fine.

 

The soft snow made for a fun descent back to Source lake and we were soon back at the car. Sadly we both forgot to bring post climb beers; nonetheless a jolly good day out with a new friend, and I look forward to more.

 

Edited February 18, 2012 by Keithish

[La Mano]

Taking skis next time. We missed out on some good turns up high.

Edited February 16, 2012 by La Mano