B Deleted_Beck Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 (edited) EDIT: changing this to any SS route, other than DKH... based on the beta i'm getting, it gets very windy in the couloirs, and based on the forecast, it's supposed to be extremely cold and pretty windy up there anyway... i calculated a -33F in the couloir, based on estimated wind speed and factored for wind chill... i've had zero response in this route anyway, so fuck that. who wants to do a WCR variation? Original post, for Devil's Kitchen Headwall --- hola looking to do this route, but i can't get anybody to go. or at least nobody has gotten back to me, yet... whatever the case, as of right now, i have nobuddy. this'll be the most technical route i've done.. so it seems like a good mix- fast, easy approach, with a challenging finish to the top. i think i'd like to swing lead, so be a competent lead belayer and anchor builder.. i have plenty of gear, if you dont.. might be nice to have another 60m twin- i've got one that we can double up for short pitches, but full pitches would obviously be faster for this climb, or any climb: attitude is huge, with me.. i'm very chill, and if i can't climb with somebody chill, i'd just as soon solo. no room on the mountain for inflated egos, prideful refusal to climb safe, impatience, etc. i dont drink or burn.. i dont care if you do, but if you do, i'm driving -ben bkb0000@comcast.net Edited December 11, 2011 by bkb0000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 i'll be heading up tonight.. guess i'm gonna go for a solo attempt. i'll bring gear, but only take a rope and long screw up with me if'n i don't have a partner by go time. we'll see what happens when i'm standing in the crater at the base of the route, looking up! feel free to join me up until i get out from the over-night lot at about 2:30-3:00.. i'll have my phone on today until about 10:00pm, then i'll shut it off for a cat nap, check it again before i head up. 503-32seven-42four4 -ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRoth Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Hey, How about Wednesday? My buddy and I are going to scout a waterfall for Ice on Weds-Thurs. Its at the top of the sandy drainage. Ill be around for a month and Im down for climbing soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRoth Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 are you talking about monday as in tonight or monday as Monday night? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 weather will have deteriorated to 40mph winds, heavy snowfall, and poor visibility by wednesday, m'fraid ironically enough, temps will be the same, though (minus WCF) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 i bailed 50' from the summit on a measly 15ish-foot ice step 'cause i had no belay. good ice, too. otherwise.... very high quality climb, IMHO. if it wasn't for my personal need for belay on steep ice, i think i'd probably solo everything from now on. left the truck at 4am, was eating breakfast in the crater by 7:30. i've never moved that fast with a partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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