[TR] Leavenworth - Bale-Kramer Photoshoot 10/12/2011

[markwebster]

Trip: Leavenworth - Bale-Kramer Photoshoot

 

Date: 10/12/2011

 

Trip Report:

Mike, Phil (lowlife on this board) and I spent the weekend in Leavenworth. Because we had three, I climbed with my Canon 50D, and my new 'point and shoot' Lumix DMC-TS3. We got some great shots of Bale-Kramer on Saturday, and the new Yoder routes in the Pinnacles on Sunday.

 

Phil shot these of me on the crux pitch of Bale-Kramer. If you don't know Bale-Kramer, it is across the street from the Snow Creek parking lot in Leavenworth. You park at Snow Creek and walk down river on the road until you see the BMX jumps. Walk though the BMX property and catch the trail going uphill. Turn right at the junction at the cliff and head uphill underneath Rainy Day Roof, which is the huge 90 foot wide roof that stays dry in the rain.

 

The first pitch of Bale-Kramer is a 5.9 boulder problem. We spent an hour figuring out that move. Another party bypassed us on the right while we were working on it.

 

It's best to belay at the bolts, or your follower can deck as he figures out the boulder move. The next two pitches are 5.easy and 10A bolts, at which point you un-rope and hike across a grassy ledge to the base of the 4th pitch: the crux 10B crack. It's only about 60 feet, but it is a stout little problem.

 

The party that had bypassed us on the boulder move was stalled out there. Neither one could figure out the overhanging start into the crack.

 

We hung around for a while, enjoying the show and the view until they offered us a chance to try it. I'd done it before and knew the secret: Get the left hand jam, place a fist jam above that, swing out and stand up. You can place a half inch cam for a top rope through the move, pictured here. Photos by Phil.

 

 

 

 

Me freaking out as I realized I'd plugged up the key finger jam at the crux with a cam. The wasted time clearing that error caused me to fall 12 feet higher *after* the crux.

 

 

 

Past the crux, but burning out quickly. This crack has very few rests, though their are some great hand and fist jams scattered amongst the rattly fingers.

 

 

 

Mike led the 5th pitch. There is a mixed pitch of 5.9, or the all bolts 10a variation pictured here. I followed it, hung a rap line, and shot these images of Phil leading it on Mikes draws. The sun had set on the rest of the canyon, but we had some lovely evening light for these photos.

 

 

This rock is strange. It's a polished shield of granite, with unpredictable bumps and pockets that make for challenging 10a sport climbing. Fortunately the bolts are close.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday we got drove to Castle. It was raining there so we headed off to the Pinnacles to climb Yoder's new routes on Sunset Slab. He has put up a brand new 5.8 route there with normally space bolts...a rarity in the Pinnacles. We all really liked it. There may be others there two, but I didn't climb them. I heard there were 3 new ones there, and maybe some over by Gray Whale as well...not confirmed yet.

 

Mike leading up the new 5.8 bolt route.

 

 

 

Both Phil and I tried to lead Washboards (10c) after that and got schooled. I used to like that route, but my new shoes appear to have bad rubber and I took a nasty whipper on the first bolt, bruising my hip so badly I'm still limping 3 days later.

 

I need to practice falling on slabs. I used to be able to land correctly on my butt or side and simply slide down until the rope caught. I need to stop doing the cartwheel thing.

 

 

 

[telemarker]

Great weekend in Central WA! That third pitch of B/K Route is such an excellent lesson in jamming. Fingers, off fingers, thin hands, perfect hands to off width. All in a short 60 feet or so...Always a pleasure see your photos.

[stevetimetravlr]

Stellar photos of BK route! Very cool Yoder is back at the Pinnacles doing new routes as 30 years ago he used to be a fixture there as I recall.

[markwebster]

Yes, I used to see Yoder all the time at the Pinnacles back in the early eighties, along with RainDawg, The McNerthny brothers, Jim Donini and bunch of other regulars. The Pinnacles used to be quite the hangout, you had to wait in line for the good routes...which are still there, but empty. I like to think of it as my private climbing area, practically a wilderness experience :-)

 

Yoder did put 3 new routes on Sunset Slab at the Pinnacles. I climbed them all last weekend and they are great, safe bolting, minimal run outs and new anchors. He did an awesome job!

 

 

 

[stevetimetravlr]

Back in about 1980 I was going to school in E-burg at Central, and Fred Stanley was a prof there, and also headed up the climbing club. The climbing club took a trip to Leavenworth and we climbed at the Pinnacles due to weather. Fred Stanley sent Washboard in vibram soled mountain boots, amazing. What a class act that guy is as well as a strong climber. He's left his mark on many first ascents in Washington, I wonder how hes doing?

[curtveld]

the crux 10B crack. It's only about 60 feet, but it is a stout little problem.

10b...yeah, right...that thing's way more than one letter harder than the rest of the climb, IMHO

 

Nice send and photos, as usual Mark.