Know_Fear Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 I'm planning to climb N. Ridge Forbidden. Has anyone crosses Shark Fin Col recently? Can I rapell it w/ a single 50m rope? Also, it's been years since I descended W. Ridge Forbidden. I believe 50m is sufficient. Been up/down recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 I'd be interested in hearing how difficult it is to climb to the col as well. A few weeks ago we opted for the Boston Peak ledges to get to the Boston glacier because we had ice climbing boots and full packs and read that attaining the col involved "awkward 5.8" moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Know_Fear Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 Nelson book says 5.7. I looked at it last weekend. I took some beta from Summit Post TR (I think) and went up and right ~100m to a higher crossing point. There was an anchor there, but there's a giant berg on the other side. Doh! The normal crossing looked fine/easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Been a few years, but we avoided the col proper. Instead, head up a gully to the right of the col (snow), and then about 2/3 of the way up, head up and left on a gray-ish rock band. This will take you to a notch where you can downclimb about 10 feet to the snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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