[TR] North Cascades - Ptarmigan Traverse 8/1/2011

[shortyj]

Trip: North Cascades - Ptarmigan Traverse

 

Date: 8/1/2011

 

Trip Report:

Sharing a little about the conditions encountered on the Ptarmigan Traverse between Aug 1-6 2011.

 

We found ourselves taking our crampons on and off between mixture of snow and talus fields from Cascade Pass to the Middle Cascade Glacier. Rest of the trip we primarily were traversing in snow with variable conditions depending on time of day. Throughout the trip we were able to find dry bivy sites for camping and access to running water from the streams. (Bring a cup!) Also with changing conditions we were watching and listening for rock fall.

 

 

Aug 1st there was a head wall on the top of Cache Col and deep rock moats forming on both sides. We traversed to the left side and stemmed the rock moat between the cornice and the rock using ice ax and hand line to squeeze through. Kool Aid Lake is covered in snow and we saw a black bear below the lake on the heather fields bordering the treeline.

 

As of Aug2nd we were able to step up on to the Red Ledge, and crossed a 12 ft snow drift that laid across the ledge half way. The Middle Cascade Glacier has open crevasses on the upper portion that we had to skirt around. The crevasses on La Conte, Dana and Dome glaciers have not opened when we traversed them between August 2 - 4th.

 

Portion of the larger Yang Yang Lake is melted out, but skipped the descent to lakes and camped at Halakal pass. Thhe route from Yang Yang lakes / Halakal pass can go many different ways. Route description we used state to go to the pass and from there the information gets fuzzy. With the conditions we had, it would probably have been more expedient to traverse across the snow slopes on the east side of the ridge rather than hit the backside.

 

White Rock Lakes are still snowed in as of Aug 4th. We had a needy marmot, goat and deer hanging around the White Rock camp site. We took extra precaution to protect our gear and food. We had odor free bags for our food and used a emergency blanket to cover our sweaty gear.

 

As of August 4th we basically could walk up to the rock bench on top of north east Peak of Dome, but still need appropriate protection to cross ledge to true summit. Also the bergschrund has not opened up at the top of the Chickamin glacier.

Traverse to Itswoot Ridge from Dome glacier we encountered recently triggered wet slab avalaches. Also our serene wilderness experience disrupted by low flying fighter jets swooping through the Agnes Creek Valley.

 

Aug. 5th the descent to Cub Lake is primarily snow covered, however caution in crossing the snow bridges over the creeks and avalanches debris.

The upper part of Bachelor Creek is snow covered, but eventually a climber's path appears. Recommend staying on the left side of Bachelor Creek. The bushwack starts at the down tree section that merges into the slide alder jungle until crossing down log over Bachelor Creek at around 4100 ft. Afterwards following the right side of creek on snow free climber's path encountering occasional sections of down trees and mud bogs.

 

Downey Creek trail is mostly maintained with a few down trees across path. Also for the non super humans who would prefer breaking up the exit into two days, there are bivy sites along the Downey Creek trail, and the parking lot for the old Downey Creek trailhead.

 

A bike would of been so nice to have for the 9 miles on the Suiattle River Road back to the car.

 

 

This was an amazing, beautiful trip, but does require good ice ax and crampon technique...route-finding skills essential plus endless endurance. Not for beginners.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons that are easy to take on and off; Cup for dipping in the glacier streams; Odor free bags; a Bike stashed at Suiattle River Road

 

Approach Notes:

As of Aug. 1st Cascade Pass clear up to the last switch backs. Snow and Talus once you pass Cascade pass up to Cache Col.

Edited August 11, 2011 by jon

[jon]

We love first post first TR people! Thank you, I've fixed the images for you.

[SmilingWhiteKnuckles]

Way to go, shortyj! Thanks for posting your report.

[timmy_t]

So much snow yet! White Rock Lakes are going to be permanently covered by glacier if we get a couple more years like this. Or not...thanks for the TR.