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johnsonjj22

[TR] Mt. Deception - Standard 7/2/2011

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Trip: Mt. Deception - Standard

 

Date: 7/2/2011

 

Trip Report:

Started on Thursday at noon and reached the Upper Royal Basin by 18:30. We were slowed down due to some routefinding issues, slushy snow and snow bridges. Camped just below the standard route start on the E face of Deception. Started climb at 06:00 on VERY good snow that froze over night. Made it to 6600' before partner, who was using micro-spikes, got sketched due to exposure and increasing steepness. Watched another climber solo the honeymoon route, then downclimb same route :o (he apparently wasn't aware of the standard route). Early season is definitely the time to climb Deception to avoid scree slopes or wet snow.

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons and Ice Axe required for now. Small rope and pickets depending on your comfort level with exposure.

 

Approach Notes:

Two major avalanches on the approach trail. Orange surveyor tape should mark the way back to the trail after crawling over some logs (though in practice, it wasn't placed very intuitively) Snow melting very fast. Constant snow above 4600'. 5-7' of snow at Royal Lake, probably more in Upper Royal Basin.

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