[TR] The Enchantments - Prusik Peak - Colchuck to Snow Lake 6/25/2011

[RGE78]

Trip: The Enchantments - Prusik Peak - Colchuck to Snow Lake

 

Date: 6/25/2011

 

Trip Report:

Most of the area around Colchuck lake was still covered in snow. The lake itself was still roughly 20% still frozen over, which made crossing the boulder field below Dragontail much easier. Asgard Pass was almost completely under hard snow. Though crampons were not needed (two of us did not use them), they definitely made the hike easier, faster and more direct.

 

We arrived in the core Enchantments, around 9:30AM, (needless to say, completely snowed over) and hiked to Prusik Peak via Talisman lake. The snow, again, made the route more direct. At roughly 11:30AM, after a bit of route finding, we reached the base Prusik Peak. As there were three of us, Dave would lead the climb, then belay both Hagen and myself from two different ropes, allowing us to simul-climb, making the ascent faster. Hagen would follow Dave, and I cleaned the route.

 

Though the Enchantments were covered in snow, the steep slopes of Prusik Peak were quite bare. The air was cold, thus we climbed mostly with our puffy jackets on, though the sun and climbing exertion would warm us up allowing one to just wear thin longsleeves for improved mobility. Since we would be rappelling from the summit onto the snow slopes below the north face of Prusik, which were quite steep and a considerably distance from the base of the climb, I elected to carry my boots in my pack, as well as our three ice axes.

 

The climb overall went quite well, Dave even free climbed the whole first pitch. We followed the route from the Fred Beckey book “Cascade Alpine Guide”. Each belay station made for a comfortable perch to continue ascending. As I was carrying a pack, there were certain sections of the climb in which I had difficulty squeezing through cracks, but ultimately I made it through by sheer force.

 

The most exciting part of the climb was on the 2nd horn on pitch 4. The ascent above this horn, identified by a fixed pin below its face, looked difficult but the forgiving cascade granite allowed for an easier smear up the face to some great holds. From there, we’d wrap around to the south side of the face and climb along the sketchy traverse which leads to the belay station just below the summit.

 

From there, the ascent to the top was pretty straightforward, up and around a fin of rock and through a narrow corridor just below the top. For me to fit, I had to hand Hagen my pack on the summit, while I climbed the last few feet. The views from the peak were amazing, and the weather, seemed to hold out with a few low clouds and sun breaks. Amazing climb.

 

Unfortunately, we did not summit until close to 5PM. Though we were able to rap down a full rope length, allowing us to skip rap stations, it still took the three of us a considerable amount of time to descend. That said, and since there were only two pair of crampons between the three of us, Dave made the command decision that we’d descend the much longer, but safer Snow Lake trail. Asgard pass would be too sketchy to descend at night given the hard snow pack, especially for someone without crampons.

 

Route finding on the Snow Lake trail was difficult until after below Snow Lake given the heavy snow coverage, but we managed to keep on the trail despite a few hitches, and finally exited at 2AM. Epic Climb!

 

Approach Notes:

Crampons were very convenient on the ascent of Asgard, wouldn't descend without them. Snow started at Colchuck lake, and ended just past Snow Lake.

Edited July 6, 2011 by RGE78

[Buckaroo]

SWEET!!

 

Which route did you do and do you have any more pics?

[RGE78]

Through the Enchantments, we started at Colchuck, then exited Snow Lake. For Prusik Peak, we did the West Ridge, then rapped off the north face.

 

I will add some pics.

Edited July 6, 2011 by RGE78