Climbing Parter for Mt.Hood, June 13-19th

[aruel100]

Howdy,

im a mazama BCEP graduate looking for a more experienced climber to attempt mt.Hood with. climbing season is near its end so id like to do it next week (plus, i have school off). I've summited st.helens once, and attempted shasta also once.

 

i have 3 other BCEP graduates friends who'd be very happy to join so please let me know if you'd like to go up. we've gotten up to illumination rock but that's it. mazama climbs are hard to get into, particularly the mt.Hood climbs and none of us have gotten into any of our first choice climbs:(

~thanks!

 

PS: here are our climb resumes

me: summited st.helens (witer). attemped st.helens a second time and mt.Shasta (winter)

sh: summited south sister and st.helens (late summer). attempted MSH and Shasta(winter)

al: attepted Adams (winter, mazama glacier route)

luk: attempted Shasta and Adams (winter, mazama glacier route)

Edited June 6, 2011 by aruel100

[Water]

honest two cents, low chances you'll find a more experienced climber willing to 'lead' or join your team--unless it is someone from your BCEP class like an assistant or something.

 

That said, sounds like you have a nice 4 person group who has some experience in the mountains in summer and winter--sounds like you'd be a good team to go up the 4 of you. If you need advice about the route and other factors, you can probably get that just fine here.

 

cheers

[aruel100]

thank you for the honest response:) i tried asking a couple assistants but i didn't get to know any of them too well.

 

i'm interested in the second part of your post. do you think we could do the south side route; just the 4 of us?

 

2 guys have ice screws (1 long, 1 short each) and they have rope (they're the crazy ones who went up the mazama glacier), we all have belts of course. we're all ok starting at midnight, the trouble is just that the 2 guys with the screws dont really know how to use the. that's why we wanted somebody experienced who could set up anchors.

~thanks again

[Water]

if you search the forums you can find a lot of advice about the route and gear required.

 

Why don't you email your instructor, or go get a climbing book with route description (as a BCEP student you can go to the library there and read read read!), or even ask an assistant for advice? That is where I would start first for yourselves.

 

My opinion is based off a very little window of a few sentences from you, but reading, it sounds like you need to learn more about the route and while you could muddle your way up and down okay, more research and practice on something like adams/south sister in snow.. a bit more, before hood, would serve you well. Just a consideration ie: you dont place any ice screws to go up the dog southside route...

[ajpederson]

Was on the south side this weekend, went up the old chute, and it was full of snow. No need for screws, don't even know if you could find somewhere to get them to stick.