[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 2/19/2011

[CamelJockey]

Trip: Chair Peak - North Face

 

Date: 2/19/2011

 

Trip Report:

NOTE: VIDEO LINK OF ROUTE IS BELOW

 

Dana and I had a great climb on the North Face of Chair Peak on Saturday. It was both our first time up Chair. There was a party of 3 in front of us just getting started, so we decided to start off on pitches 1 and 2 on the left side to try to get past them and break the bottleneck. They were nice and didn't mind, and we let them know that if we did get in there way at any point, we'd give them the right of way. Fortunately, we were able to move quickly enough that this wasn't an issue. The left side was a bit steeper and harder to protect, and also more out of a way resulting in a traverse on pitch 3, but it was fine.

 

Pitch 1: I led. Some ice, some steep snow with a hard layer of ice/hardpacked 8" down, and some steep snow with a hard layer of windcrust on top. Placed about 3 screws on first half of pitch, one up higher, and a couple of pickets. Belayed off a shitty tree branch + a bomber picket.

 

Pitch 2: Dana led. 50 degree snow with some ice down low. Slung a tree for pro midway and then built an ice and picket anchor up top.

 

Pitch 3: I led. We now had to traverse hard right to get back on route and over to the final couloir. Place a couple screws and belayed off a big tree.

 

Final push to summit saddle (50 feet or so): We walked up the steep snow.

 

Final push to true summit: I led. Set a picket for a belay and kicked steps up. About 6" of snow slabby rock, but no issues.

 

Descent: Downclimbed easily a couple hundred feet to the notch where the rap station is. Dana did first rap on a single 60m rope and looked for the alleged intermediate rap station but no where to be found. No big deal though. The snow was great so we downclimbed the rest and I was even able to face downhill for part of it.

 

Here is a video we put together -

. I hope you enjoy watching it as much as we enjoyed filming it.

 

3 hour approach. 2.5 hours to summit saddle. Left car at 7AM, back at 5PM. 10 hours total for the day.

 

 

Rick and Dana

 

Gear Notes:

60 meter rope. 7 screws (we used about 5). I'd recommend half shorter ones (10s or 13s) and half 16s. 3 pickets - used them all. Brought a rock rack and never had to use it.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Used snowshoes. Deep snow. We carried over our snowshoes as opposed to leave in basin. 2.5 hours to ridge. 30 min to base of route. Moat was a breeze to get around. Just stayed below it. And we descended without snowshoes although putting them on would have helped.

[Fairweather]

Great video! Looks like you guys know how to have fun in the mountains. Sorry we missed you up there. Great report.