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Posted (edited)

Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress

 

Date: 2/12/2011

 

Trip Report:

Vern and i decided to try Chair Peak. Snow conditions were pretty ideal. Looked like it had rained recently so there was a nice ice crust. Didn't see any tracks except on the downclimb. Ice was pliable but solid so made for easy climbing on the ice pitches. About half way up the winds kicked up and the gusts were strong enough that I had to hug the snow to keep from getting knocked over. We reached the top but didn't hang out long due to the wind. It was really bad downclimbing. Right about when we reached the lake the storm that we were trying to avoid moved in and it started raining on us for the hike back. Not so much fun, but well worth the summit.

 

182398_715306328480_25915984_39935190_4765577_n.jpg

 

Downclimb

180948_715306468200_25915984_39935198_580601_n.jpg

 

Traverse

171228_715306403330_25915984_39935193_3265605_o.jpg

 

Snowpack down low is looking fairly aweful. We saw alot of holes opening up and the snow was a slushy mess. Snowpack up around rockslide basin is pretty solid, however. Could get a couple hundred feet of good skiing if its worth the 3 mile hike in.

 

Gear Notes:

Pro: 2 snow pickets, two ice screws, piton, slings.

60m 9.8mm rope

 

Approach Notes:

Climbed up the first pitch of ice. placed an ice screw and a picket. Put a sling around the trees for the belay. Next pitch setup a snow picket for the belay station. Traversed across to the second ice pitch. Placed a solid snow picket. Set two ice screws since the ice was hollow. Slung a rock for the belay station. Put a sling around a small tree at the top.

 

Downclimbed to the belay station that had some pitons. Rapped down over the cornice.

Edited by Powder Skier
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Posted

Climbed the N Face on Friday in high winds and blowing snow. One set of tracks up and over in front of my partner and I. Route is FAT taking screws easily on the bottom ice "pitch". Pretty quick in and out without skis--definitely spring conditions.

Posted

Nice work gents. I was up there watching the sun rise without a partner (he chose to be with his girlfriend over climbing with me). The NE buttress looked good...glad someone enjoyed it. It got a bit windy later in the morning. Thanks for the TR. Took this on the hike outPanorama_779_-_Copy.JPG

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