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Trip: McClellan Butte - North Couloir

 

Date: 12/22/2010

 

Trip Report:

Went up to solo the Butte today, something I've wanted to climb for a long time since I look at it everytime I come back from Leavenworth. The snow was actually pretty fucking good the whole way up until about the last approx. 200 feet, which was flat out wallowing hell.

Theres a few fun little steps of water-ice and whenever you get bored you can just climb the walls of the couloir to spice it up a bit!

I took a look at the mixed pitch at the top and the dihedral looked pretty bad so I searched for other options. Everything up there is pretty much the same: 6-10 inches of snow over blank rock with some enticing looking ice that turns out to be really scary and aerated. So after like 20 feet of my pons skittering left and right and not looking much better above, I turned tail, like a lttle bitch, and post holed back to my pbrs stashed in the snow at the bottom.

PC222466.JPGPC222465.JPGPC222460.JPG

There's actually ICE up there! steps are kicked, go get it!

 

That first picture is some WIE, as in EXTREME! beta alert: There's a hidden branch jug up on your left

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

pons and tools, misery-shoes for the approach wouldntve hurt.

 

Approach Notes:

flotation wouldve been nice. if i were better at skiing i wouldve skied down that bitch, if youre a good skier itd be sick! oh yeah, watch out for the ultra-pothole on road 55

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