[TR] Woolley and Diadem - Diadem SE Face variation and Woolley N. Ridge 8/16/2010

[Le Piston]

Trip: Woolley and Diadem - Diadem SE Face variation and Woolley N. Ridge

 

Date: 8/16/2010

 

Trip Report:

After my friend Rod hurt his hand on the approach last summer, we considered this a grudge match...we had to come back and climb these peaks! So, after the frigid Sunwapta river crossing (it doesn't get any better with repetition) we hiked up Woolley creek to the basin below the two peaks. We set up camp in a nice rock walled spot (same as last year) and went up to the glacier to recon the route. Our plan was to do the Southeast face, which takes a snow gulley all the way to the summit, but there were big cornices at the top. So, we decided to climb a gulley between the Woolley-Diadem col and the summit. We arose at 0400 and joined up with Dow Williams and Ferenc Jasco who were climbing the same route. After navigating through some crevasses on the lower glacier, we started up the SE face gulley.

The gulley never got above 45 degrees and the snow was just soft enough for good step kicking. At the top of the gulley it was icy and a bit overhanging, so we trended left and pulled onto the Diadem summit ridge. A short snow slog led to the rocky summit scramble with views of nearby Woolley, Alberta, and the Icefields peaks.We descended scree and snow down to the col and headed up the long North ridge up Woolley.We enjoyed the views from the summit and a traditional Ritter Sport chocolate bar to celebrate.Then it was back to the col and descend snow to what is described as easy scree and ledge scramble down (Canadian for loose and hard to find) which lead back to the lower snow gulley. I punched into one crevasse on the way down from the col, which Dow and Ferenc missed unroped (lucky). It was a really nice climb and fantastic views (unfortunately I can't seem to download all the scenic panorama shots). It was nice to be able to bag two 11,000 foot peaks in one day in such a beautiful area. Unfortunately, that night smoke from forest fires filled the whole Columbia Icefields area. We decided to head back home instead of climbing more Canadian peaks. This is definitely one of the easier approaches to Canadian 11,000ers and has incredible views of Mt. Alberta, North Twin, and surrounding peaks.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear. I was glad to have two tools for the gulley. We took a 30 meter rope, a picket each (not used) and a few ice screws (not used).

 

Approach Notes:

The Sunwapta river is bitterly cold, but didn't get above thigh level (or crotch for shorter partners). The trail beside Woolley creek is well cairned all the way up to the basin near the glacier. The descent route is a bit hard to follow.

Edited August 26, 2010 by Le Piston

[mountainsloth]

wow, that looks pretty beautiful! Nice job getting up there!