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Lipschitz

[TR] Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier variation 8/21/2010

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Trip: Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier variation

 

Date: 8/21/2010

 

Trip Report:

Seb France and I climbed Shuksan car-to-car on Saturday. We left the car at 1am and by the time we reached the camp at 5400ft the moon had already set. So we couldn't see the trail going towards the right at that point. We followed an obvious trail on the left ridge and were encouraged when we saw boot tracks. Unfortunately it was the wrong way and it cost us an extra 1000ft vertical and walking on annoying talus, wet moss and brushes. We finally met the Sulphie glacier at 6400ft.

 

The glacier is in excellent condition. The snow was hard early in the morning, perfect for crampons.

 

We were surprised to see only 5 people the whole day. We saw 2 climbers emerging from the Hell's Highway (we were already on descent, way below them). A lot later we met 3 more guys who were going up to camp. I really didn't expect solitude on this popular route.

 

I learned that I need to be more careful when navigating an unfamilar route at night.

 

Off route by sunrise

sulph1003.jpg

 

On the Sulphide glacier

Sulph1016.jpg

 

Morning light

Sulph1018.jpg

 

Baker

Sulph1038.jpg

 

The steeper snow

Sulph1050.jpg

 

Seb approaching the summit

Sulph1052.jpg

 

Icy Peak and Nooksack Cirque

Sulph1055.jpg

 

Flowers on the pyramid

Sulph1083.jpg

 

2 climbers (in the left corner, below the crevasse) coming from the Fisher Chimneys

Sulph1098.jpg

 

The weather moving in

Sulph1105.jpg

 

We should've gone to the right here

Sulph1108.jpg

 

Our actual route

Sulph1111.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons, 30m light glacier rope

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