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Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz

 

Date: 7/26/2010

 

Trip Report:

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Terrible -- is a good one word summary for current ski conditions on the Kautz route. It would be a fitting one word trip report, elaboration is only the result of my current boardem and coffee buzz.

 

For several reasons I was not able get going on the trail until after 10am. I was however registered - which however detrimental to personal saftey (not being able to get an alpine start because of in-person registration regulations increases hazards -((rockfall-snowbridges-travel conditions))- for one-day climbers considerably) I was at least abideing the law.

 

I got up to Muir by 12, lunched, then slogged across the Ingrham Flats. I met a couple climbers camped below the D.C. one I think I recognized as DenaliDevo of cc, but I did not mention it, if it was - it was good to bump into you! I melted some water then scrambled up the DC, which is in good shape, a few cracks up high, but all are super easy to step across or have solid bridges etc...

 

I reached the crater around 430 and made my way to Columbia Crest. Bueatiful weather up there, and views as always.

 

summitshot

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Skiing off the summit down to Point Success sucked. Nasty sustrugi. Ski conditions dropping into the Kautz Glacier were challenging, but still enjoyable, challenging becuase of the firmish sustrugi. The best skiing of the upper mountain was midway on the upper glacier, where serac fall had smoothed the way - by knocking down the petinentanttes... Once the glacier started to flatten relatively, the sustrugi and petinentanttes grew considerably, becomeing nearly knee deep... most were soft, but some were icy hard... conditions did not improve as I gained the top of the ice chute. It was hainous, the petinentantees hid crevsses, created dangerous fall potential on the steep part of the chute, and needless to say -- they offered a high injury potential. I ardously made turns down through the mess hitting some snice along the way, this took a long time. The upper Turtle was pretty bad too, but improved somewhat as I got lower, however it was now in the shade, and this created the surface to harden and crust. The wilson was smooth really fun to ski, although much of it still had a developing/hardening crust -- thats what I get for leaving at 10.

 

conditions just above the ice chute.

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Another fun and challenging day on Rainer. I think it's time to start climbing rocks.

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Edited by danhelmstadter
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