Tricouni N. Buttress

[jordo]

Hey Dru, noticed on bivy.com a pic of the north buttress of Tricouni. Everybody I have talked to has approached via High Falls Creek, contoured around and climbed only the upper part of the ridge above the main buttress. Did you guys tackle the whole thing? If so, did it remain low 5th? as per Fairley? Also, know of anyone whose tried the W face of Blanchard? These routes seem to have been forgotten in the past thrity years, probably for good reason!

[Dru]

N buttress of tricouni you must approach from Roe Creek. Last ascents I know of were FWA and 2nd WA by Bruce Kay, and Guy Edwards etc. respectively. We did the E. ridge and joined into the N buttress 1 pitch from the top. I have heard low 5th is about right, the rock is broken but pretty solid, and quite juggy. You could do it in mtn boots.

I know Brian Moorehead that did the FA of W face of Blanshard. He says it would be rated 5.7 if done today, first thing he did off the boat from Britain and he didn't understand the grading system that well, VS in Brit grades. They did lots of pitches but probably less than 10 today with longer ropes. It has been done a few times but I don't personally know of any ascents since the late 80's, I would guess about 3-4 in the last 10 years. The rock on the summit is pretty bad but that face might be more solid. Maybe sometime in the next few weeks if you are keen we should check it out?

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 08-10-2001).]