[TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart glacier couloir 7/2/2010

[shannonpahl]

Trip: Mt Stuart - Stuart glacier couloir

 

Date: 7/2/2010

 

Trip Report:

Just got back from doing SGC yesterday. The route is in excellent condition but probably will change in a week or two. The shrund on Stuart glacier at about 7700ft is passable on the right with a good snow bridge. The mid section of the couloir has good water ice covering the runnels (WI2), the rest of the steep snow climbing was nice hard neve snow. The rock section has only a few steps of ice/snow that requires very minimal easy mixed climbing. There is a big shrund coming down the Sherpa, the obvious funnel going down the center is one way to get over it, but I suspect that bridge will melt out soon, making the decent a little more tricky. If you get a good weather window, now is the time to get it in easy condition.

Edited July 2, 2010 by shannonpahl

[olymand]

Saw Jiri's pix on facebook. Looked like a fair piece of work and a little bit of everything. saw that you rapped down a bit. was that on ice cliff glacier?

 

Dan G.

[summitchaserCJB]

Hopefully heading that way soon. Thanks for the update.

[Kyle_Flick]

As of July 5th the bridge over the schrund of SGC was mushy but still intact. A storm from the night before rimed the upper reaches of the mountain, so more mixed climbing than what shannonpahl experienced. It will melt off quickly. The shrund on Sherpa is open at the runnel. Folks are now rapping the shrund, but a way around still is available 50 yards to the left (east) of the runnel.